Alcohol-free sunscreens?
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free skin care · Thu Dec 31, 2009 11:26 am

Hey gals and guys,

Happy new year Smile

I need help with finding an alcohol free sunscreen.

My skin is so dry and I think my current sunscreen is causing this.

I'm using LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTHELIOS Extreme Face Fluid SPF 50 (It is for oily skin, but its actually quite oily itself and very light).

I like using sunscreens with mexoryl but I think the alcohol in this is killing my dry skin.

Any help? Sad

Thanks guys.

free skin care · Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:24 pm

LondonJamie, if you could take a moment and list the ingredients list for this sunscreen product that would be helpful. It is quite possible that the "alcohol" in this product isn't what is causing your skin to become dry. The clue that makes me think this is the fact that you say this is a fairly "oily" product to begin with...

John

free skin care · Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:32 pm

Ingredients: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane,Isononym Isononanoate, Octocrylene, Alcohol Denat, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Titanium Dioxide, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Bis-Ethylhexylophenol, Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, PEG-30 Dupolhydroxystearate, Silica, Nylon-12, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Alumina, Butylparaben, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Ethylparaben, Glycine Soya, Isobutylparaben, Lauryl Methicone, Methylparaben, Pentasodium Ethylenediamine Tetramenthylene Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparabenm Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Tocopherol, Triethanolamine.

Thanks Notch.

It is oily when you apply it, but then dries/absorbs quite quickly.

My skin is unnaturally dry. It never used to be, but since I've started using skin care its gotten worse.

I'm 21, I don't drink, I don't smoke, I get plety of EFA's, lots of vegetables and water....something is amiss.

I'm going to try and eradicate *any* alcohol skin products. I just found Pai skin care (they sell it at my local wholefoods) and they have creams and cleansers which are alcohol free.

free skin care · Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:06 pm

Ingredients: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane,Isononym Isononanoate, Octocrylene, Alcohol Denat, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Titanium Dioxide, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Bis-Ethylhexylophenol, Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, PEG-30 Dupolhydroxystearate, Silica, Nylon-12, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Alumina, Butylparaben, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Ethylparaben, Glycine Soya, Isobutylparaben, Lauryl Methicone, Methylparaben, Pentasodium Ethylenediamine Tetramenthylene Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparabenm Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Tocopherol, Triethanolamine.

OK, let's take a look at these ingredients and see if we can figure out what the formulator was trying to do.

The first ingredient is water, so it is highest loaded, and that's typical for a sunscreen product.

Next you will see cyclopentasiloxane, followed three ingredients later by Alcohol Denatured. The cyclopentasiloxane and the Alcohol are both "volatile" ingredients. The cyclopentasiloxane helps with easy spreading since it is a silicone, and that is important for a sunscreen. Complete spreading of the sunscreen actives makes for a very good sunscreen. But, since they are both volatile, they evaporate out of the product and off of your skin very quickly. Now, both will have a "solvent" effect. So, as you rub it on, they will tend to mix with some of your natural skin oils and when they evaporate some of those oils will be disrupted....thus, drying your skin.

So, your first assumption about the Alcohol is probably correct, especially since these two volatile components are high in the list (and fairly highly loaded in the formula).

Isononyl Isononanoate is an ester that is in there for smooth spreading and a good skin feel. This is more than likely the ingredient that is giving you the "light" yet "oily" feel. It is a very oily feeling emollient that penetrates rather slowly (which is better to spread the sunscreen actives).

The sunscreen actives are Octocrylene (chemical), Titanium Dioxide (physical), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (chemical), Bemotrizinol , (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) is an oil soluble organic compound which is added to sunscreens to absorb UV rays. It is marketed as Tinosorb S so it is probably mixed with the TiO2 above (chemical...not approved for use in the U.S.), Drometrizole Trisiloxane is Mexoryl XL (chemical), Ethylhexyl Triazone is a UVB absorbing sunscreen (chemical).

So, this product is LOADED with sunscreen actives. I can see why it gets an SPF 50 rating!

However, it is also loaded with silicones, and no really good fatty acids (emollient oils) or wax esters. So, even though it does a good job of sunscreen protection, and the formulator did a good job of assuring excellent spread and coverage with the volatile ingredients, high spreading silicones and one ester.... it is not a very skin friendly formula. It lacks the wax esters, fatty acids, etc. that would make it skin friendly and compatible with the skin.

Therefore, this product does have skin drying ingredients. It has no real skin friendly fatty acids or wax esters. Bottom line... it's just what you say... this product feels light and oily but IT IS drying your skin out!

Hope this helps,

John

free skin care · Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:35 pm

Thank you so much for taking the time to help me. This has helped tremendously!

It just goes to show you really do not know what the 'other' ingredients in products are doing to your skin.

Naturally, I am never going to use this product again.

Thank you Very Happy

free skin care · Thu Dec 31, 2009 2:45 pm

I remember the cream ones in La Roche-Posay do not contain alcohol. Don't know if you'd want to use a cream s/s though. Perhaps try to get a sample to try first?

Otherwise, L'Oreal, Garnier, Lancome, Vichy, Biotherm all use mexoryls.

Sorry I don't remember much of them as I don't like mexoryls. Laughing

free skin care · Thu Dec 31, 2009 2:58 pm

Hi Circus,

I've used the cream formulations of LRP before and they are really heavy. I also just checked the ingredient list and it also contains alcohol and cyclopentasiloxane.

I'm considering Invisible Zinc SPF 30. These are the ingredients:

Water, Zinc Oxide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclomethicone, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/8 Methicone, Phenyl trimethicone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Isostearic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Polyhydroxy Stearic Acid, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

free skin care · Thu Dec 31, 2009 8:19 pm

I have also used La Roche Posay both the ultra light sunscreen fluid and the creams which contain Mexoryl SX. I would agree the fluid sunscreen is really light weight but because it does contain Alcohol it is drying on the skin, great for oilier skin, humid climates, it absorbs quickly and you don't feel you are wearing a sunscreen. The creams are heavier and less drying but again, I always feel like they sit on the skin and don't really melt in, better for cooler seasons.

I have also used invisible zinc, I found it too be really heavy and it does leave a white film on the skin. Its a physical sunscreen, so it sits on the skin acting like a 'physical barrier", it's very high in zinc which is real positive. I just recently purchased Shiseido Ulimate sun protection SPF 60 which contains 16.3% zinc. Because its a lotion the texture is really light weight, despite the high % of zinc it doesn't leave a white film on the skin and it doesn't feel drying.

I subscribe to Paula Begoun's Beautypedia, author of "don't go to the cosmestic counter without me" and she has a comprehensive review of all brands and sunscreen, there ingredients, effectiveness etc. It worthwhile looking at that site to find something that may suit your needs. Believe me, I'm constantly still trying to find one that I like.

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:53 am

LondonJamie wrote:

Hi Circus,

I've used the cream formulations of LRP before and they are really heavy. I also just checked the ingredient list and it also contains alcohol and cyclopentasiloxane.

Oops! My bad! It is the Lotion (Lait?) that doesn't contain alcohol. The one for both face and body.

Just a note about physical s/s. These s/s tend to have a "heavy" feel, mainly because they are physical blockers, they sit on skin to reflect UV.

I hope you find something both you and your skin like! Very Happy

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 3:05 am

LondonJamie wrote:

Hi Circus,

I've used the cream formulations of LRP before and they are really heavy. I also just checked the ingredient list and it also contains alcohol and cyclopentasiloxane.

I'm considering Invisible Zinc SPF 30. These are the ingredients:

Water, Zinc Oxide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclomethicone, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/8 Methicone, Phenyl trimethicone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Isostearic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Polyhydroxy Stearic Acid, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

The high % zinc oxide sunscreens tend to be rather drying on the skin too, even those without alcohol.

You can also consider Avene emulsion SPF50-+ or as somebody mentioned the LRP Lait (Lotion) which doesn't contain alcohol. In Asia, we have drugstore Meroxyl sunscreens called L'Oreal UV Perfect and Garnier brand which are by the same parent company as LRP and don't contain alcohol.

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 10:47 am

Hi mlrox,

I checked the ingredients for the lait formulation and it has alcohol denat (18%) Shock

I thought about zinc being drying on the skin... Sad

I'm going to look into the Avene one- thank you Smile

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:12 am

Hmm... I wonder which part of the world you are in.
This is the Lait without alcohol.
http://www.laroche-posay.com/INTERHTML/anthelios%20xl-spf-50-lotion-fragrance-free-description.htm

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:27 am

Hi Circus,

I'm in London, England Smile

Thanks! I was looking at the other lait formulations- I hadn't come across the velevet milk one. It sounds promising. PPD 31 Very Happy

I can't seem to track down an ingredients list...

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:56 am

Oops, yes the HTML version doesn't show the ingredients. With the original site, you go to 'Face and Body' instead of 'Face' under Sun Protection.

London is very near France so you should be getting the whole range of LRP? *I think?* hmm

I'm in asia and I do see it being retailed. And also as far as I know formulations tend to differ only with the US line.

Sorry I don't know more about the Lait. Like I said I don't like mexoryls. They made me look very shiny. I prefer the tinsorbs in Avene and Bioderma. The Avene Emulsion SPF 50+ as recommended by m1rox is nice. Very Happy

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:20 pm

Ah! found the ingredients! thank you.

NO alcohol! Very Happy

I know a few stores that stock the LRP line in London, so I will scout around to see if they stock it.

On another note. The moisturizer I bought today (Pai macadamia and rose) contains cetearyl alcohol (coconut derived).

The Pai Line is supposed to be alcohol-free....grrrrrrr Mad

I quickly googled cetearyl alcohol and it seems to be the one alcohol that is less worried about, but it is still an alcohol.

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:22 pm

I just found this excerpt from another skin care line's FAQ:

Do your products contain alcohol?

GAIA Skin Naturals do not use what you would commonly term "alcohol" in any of our formulations - this generally refers to drying acohols. Any reference to “alcohol” on our labels refers to the wax alcohols or cetearyl alcohol which are classed as moisturising alcohols. Cetearyl alcohol is made from various vegetable oils such as palm and coconut. They bear little relation to common alcohol, which is a volatile liquid and quite drying.
http://www.gaiaskinnaturals.com/Frequently-Asked-Questions/

Hopefully this is true!

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:44 pm

Maybe this article from futurederm.com will help you understand alcohols:

The Most Misunderstood Skincare Ingredient: Alcohol

All too often, consumers will refuse to buy a product because it contains high concentrations of some form of alcohol. Yet, according to Dr. Audrey Kunin, board-certified dermatologist and founder of DERMAdoctor.com, not all alcohols are dry and irritating. In fact, according to Kunin, there are seven dense alcohols — cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol 40, C12-15 alcohols, stearyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol — that are not drying or irriating. Instead, these agents are used in products as emulsifiers, thickening agents and stabilizers, allowing skin care products to have silky-smooth formulations. In addition, lanolin alcohol and stearyl alcohols also act as moisturizing factors, so not only are they not drying, they are moisturizing.

Is lanolin an allergen?
Because lanolin is derived naturally from the sebaceous glands of sheep, lanolin has often been thought of as an allergen or sensitizing agent. However, according to Begoun, a 2001 study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that the mean annual rate of sensitivity to the allergen amongst 24,449 patients was only 1.7%, with a 50% concentration of lanolin. Lower concentrations of lanolin would most likely result in even lower rates of sensitivity. As such, lanolin alcohol, an emollient derived from lanolin, should not act as an allergen or sensitizing agent in most individuals as well. If you have a known allergy to sheep’s wool or any reservations, you should consult your dermatologist.

Which alcohols are safe in skin care products?
An easy way to remember these alcohols when shopping: the 5 “C” alcohols, and “steer left,” where “steer” stands for stearyl alcohol and the “l” in “left” for lanolin alcohol. An additional note: It may be noted that cetyl, cetearyl, cetostearyl and cetyl alcohol 40 are all derived from coconut oil, and so they should not be used by anyone with coconut allergies.

So how did alcohol achieve its poor reputation?
According to Paula Begoun, author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, low molecular weight alcohols are often drying and irritating in skincare formulations. In addition, according a CNN article on skin care, the Mayo Clinic states that moisturizing products containing low molecular weight alcohols are not as effective because they evaporate quickly from the skin. The low molecular weight alcohols most commonly found in skincare products are (the first three are the same, under different names): ethanol, ethyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, and SD alcohol. (Denatured or “SD” means that the alcohols are processed so that they cannot be ingested.) The five different agents are used as a solvent, antiseptic, or degreasing agent in skin care formulations. When found high on the ingredients list, they can be drying and irritating. However, according to Kunin, if the ingredient is contained lower in the ingredients list, they may simply be acting as a degreasing agent, making for a better texture of the skin care formulation.

What does alcohol consumption do to the skin?
Excessive alcohol consumption damages skin in two primary ways. One, alcohol will dilate the blood vessels, leading to telangiectasias or chronic dilation of the capillaries, and a flush of the face. Under increased pressure, the stretched vessels may break, appearing as broken capillaries on the face. It may also be noted that it is known that alcohol consumption aggravates symptoms of patients with rosacea.

Two, alcohol interferes with the body’s processing of vitamin A (including retinoids). According to Stryker et. al, the consumption of alcohol leads to a reduced absorption of vitamin A from the diet. Because vitamin A is a known antioxidant with anti-aging properties, decreasing its absorption may lead to advanced aging. In addition, retinoids may not be as effective following excessive alcohol consumption, as Leo and Lieber note there is competition between ethanol and retinoic acid precursors, leading to accelerated breakdown of retinol through the cross-induction of degradative enzymes. With retinoids available for less time in the system, it is highly probable less efficacy is achieved, and more probable that the retinoids produce toxic by-products. The latter was verified by Leo and Lieber, as ethanol promotes the toxicity of both vitamin A and ß-carotene in the body. The researchers thereby caution that discretionary (reduced) amounts of vitamin A and ß-carotene are used by drinking populations to decrease the risk of toxicity in the body. No studies to date have been done investigating the efficacy and toxicity of topical retinoids in combination with alcohol consumption, so ask your dermatologist if you are concerned.

The Bottom Line?
Alcohols that are safe to use are the 5 C’s and “steer left” (stearyl and lanolin alcohols). Other lower-molecular weight alcohols may not be drying or irritating if they are found low on the ingredients list. Alcohol consumption leads to increased flushing of the skin, decreased absorption and efficacy of vitamin A, and increased toxicity of vitamin A and ß-carotene, so be aware of excessive alcohol consumption when using products that contain vitamin A. The bottom line: for improved skin appearance, don’t be as scared of alcohol in your skin care regime (using the guidelines above), but be fearful of excessive alcohol in your glass.

http://www.futurederm.com/2007/10/15/the-most-misunderstood-skincare-ingredient-alcohol/

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:18 pm

Lacy53

Wow thanks for that. Didn't know alcohol interferes with the body’s processing of vitamin A (including retinoids). Shock

LondonJamie

I wouldn't be too concerned with cetearyl alcohol. This is certainly not the conventional drying alcohol. Kinda like Hyalauronic Acid is not an acid.

Crossing my fingers for you with the Lait on your skin Very Happy

Fri Jan 01, 2010 7:10 pm

Hi, I just wanted to get some feedback on the better products for rosacea. I've already tried a few for cleansers, etc. as well as makeup. What are the better products?

free skin care · Fri Jan 01, 2010 9:38 pm

circus wrote:

Sorry I don't know more about the Lait. Like I said I don't like mexoryls. They made me look very shiny. I prefer the tinsorbs in Avene and Bioderma. The Avene Emulsion SPF 50+ as recommended by m1rox is nice. Very Happy

circus: I totally agree. Meroxyls make me look very shiny (not oil but shine).

Regarding Bioderma, my favourite is the Max Fluide SPF50 but I understand they have now reformulated it without alcohol and it is now PPD38 instead of 35. Before rejoicing in the exclusion of alcohol, I also received some feedback that the new version is not as fluid and seems to give a more shiny and whitening finish compared to the old version. So anybody thinking to switch over, please try and get a sample or just buy ONE tube to test out first before stocking up. The Bioderma AKN Matt SPF40 is also alcohol-free but please note that this is not fragrance-free (I have to admit I don't like Bioderma's "sunshine" fragrance - I wish they would omit fragrance in all of their sunscreens).

Sat Jan 02, 2010 8:33 am

Lacy53;

Is there a brand that you prefer? I have very sensitive skin and I have used a few brands but because of my skin type, I seem to be changing brands too many times until I find the right one.

free skin care · Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:19 am

m1rox wrote:

Regarding Bioderma, my favourite is the Max Fluide SPF50 but I understand they have now reformulated it without alcohol and it is now PPD38 instead of 35. Before rejoicing in the exclusion of alcohol, I also received some feedback that the new version is not as fluid and seems to give a more shiny and whitening finish compared to the old version.

Sheesh, I am actually waiting for an order I recently made! I just checked the Bioderma website and it's not updated too Sad

Oh well, I suppose it's good I don't lack choices in sunscreens anyway. Thanks for the heads up! Very Happy

Re the Bioderma AKN Mat SPF40, my concern was the glycolic acid in it.

free skin care · Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:34 am

Thanks for your help guys. The Mexoryls do make your face very shiny, and since I don't wear makeup I can't hide it.

I'm thinking of Skinceuticals Ultimate UV defense SPF 30 (7% Zinc). It doesn't contain alcohol.

Ingredients:

Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 7%. Inactive Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Cyclomethicone, Diisopropyl Adipate, Synthetic Beeswax, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-40 Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparrafin, Beeswax, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-20, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Dimethicone Copolyol, PVP/Eicosene Copolymer, Sorbitan Tristearate, Propylene Glycol, Stearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG 100 Stearate, Glyceryl Dilaurate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearoxytrimethylsilane, Steareth-100, Laureth-7, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben

I figured that since I live in London (and it's winter) I don't necessarily need an spf 50. I'm also going to start using Skinceuticals vit C 15 (or possibly 20) serum.

I've read some mixed reviews on the UVA protection of this sunscreen. What do you guys think? TIA.

NB: I tried a search for reviews on here but came up with nill.

free skin care · Mon Jan 18, 2010 1:36 pm

Hey LondonJamie

Skinceuticals Ultimate UV defense SPF 30
Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 7%

Octinoxate is mainly a UVB blocker. Zinc Oxide is broad spectrum and will protect against both UVA and UVB. My personal opinion is that a minimum of 10% zinc oxide will be barely scraping adequate protection. Although others might disagree.

***I actually use 18% and up, but I live in sunny climate. Cool

free skin care · Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:49 pm

I hear ya, thanks Circus.

I'm going to try out the Invisible Zinc spf 30, (not the ESP version). It doesn't contain any alcohol and has a high percentage of zinc. I'll have to see if it's drying though. Fingers crossed!

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