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Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:21 am  |
The book is a wealth of information, but I wanted to share the best nuggets here - at least in my opinion, based on the topics that come up here again and again:
- Sunscreen, retinoids, Vitamin C - still the big ones, with supporting roles played by other vitamins, antioxidants, "proper" skin care, barrier protection and renewal, and devices/fillers/peels/injections, etc.
Of particular interest to me was the discussion of aging (lifestyle factors we all know - smoking, sun avoidance, etc.)
She discusses collagen loss related to menopause and the role of estrogen replacement in reversing collagen loss.
Retinoids - what we already know, she just goes into the later generations of retinoids.
continued... |
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Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:39 am |
Vitamin C - here it gets interesting and I quote: "because few preparations of topical Vitamin C are packaged in airtight containers that are protected from UV radiation, most preparations become inactive within hours of opening the bottle." She laters goes on to say that Skinceuticals and LRP package their C formulas to minimize air and light exposure.
Vitamin C is also problematic since is often not well absorbed by the skin, better absorbed in water soluble formulations (again, if the actives are still active) and oil soluble Vitamin C formulas are more stable, but less likely to penetrate the skin (the reason why some of us enhance absorption of oil based Vitamin C with dermarollers or other machines/devices) MAP and Ascorbyl palmitate forms of C are mentioned, as is Vitamin E as a supporting player here. |
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Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:49 am |
This quote is important I think:
"At this time Vitamin C is the ONLY antioxidant that can treat wrinkles but this capacity is because of its effects in promoting collagen formation, which is unrelated to its antioxidant effects"
With respect to antioxidants, she discusses the free radical theory of aging...and gives a discussion of each of the more well known antioxidants, but discusses the scarcity of clinical evidence.
I found the section on moisturizers to be particularly helpful with credits going to petroleum jelly, mineral oil, lanolin and natural oils, with special mention going to sunflower seed oil (rich in linoleic acid) as shown to be superior to Aquaphor in one study related to barrier recovery.
I also found the sunscreen chapter helpful and provided comments on my recent zinc thread.
BF |
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Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:07 am |
| Barefootgirl wrote: |
Vitamin C - here it gets interesting and I quote: "because few preparations of topical Vitamin C are packaged in airtight containers that are protected from UV radiation, most preparations become inactive within hours of opening the bottle." She laters goes on to say that Skinceuticals and LRP package their C formulas to minimize air and light exposure.
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Hmm, what does Skinceuticals do to their packaging that most other L-ascorbic acid makers don't? SC comes in a dark bottle with a dropper, like 99% of the other L-ascorbic acid products.
That said, I think this is definitely all very interesting information, BFG. I hope you continue to share from her book. |
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Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:08 am |
Barefoot girl, thanks for sharing! Whenever you have time, please share some more! I may want to get that book.
What does she say about lasers (Micro Laser Peel, Eribum lasers)? I am curious to know. |
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Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:21 am |
I will read the lasers section again and report back when I get a few moments.
For now, I just wanted to focus on topicals and this just continues to confirm for me that the best things for my skin (and many others, I would assume) are the least (relatively) expensive.
Sunscreen, retinoids, vitamins, oils and occlusives. I think the most expensive part of my regimen is my beloved DHC cleansing oil.
Although I would like to find another source for tazarotene. I don't think the taz I got from ADC was legit.
BF |
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Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:22 am |
I don't know what Skinceuticals does to make their packaging any better. That is a really good question.
I believe that LRP uses vacuum type metal tubes with special tips.
BF |
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Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:49 am |
| Barefootgirl wrote: |
I don't know what Skinceuticals does to make their packaging any better. That is a really good question.
I believe that LRP uses vacuum type metal tubes with special tips.
BF |
LOL. Well, if you find out us know!
LRP does use the metal tubes with the special tips (at least the tips are on some of their tubes), so that one I understand! I have just started to use the Environ C-boost product, which also comes in a tube (not metal though). |
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Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:02 am |
| Barefootgirl wrote: |
| Vitamin C is also problematic since is often not well absorbed by the skin, better absorbed in water soluble formulations (again, if the actives are still active) and oil soluble Vitamin C formulas are more stable, but less likely to penetrate the skin (the reason why some of us enhance absorption of oil based Vitamin C with dermarollers or other machines/devices) MAP and Ascorbyl palmitate forms of C are mentioned, as is Vitamin E as a supporting player here. |
Uhm... but where does that leave the Tetra C, which is oil soluble and supposed to penetrate deeper?  |
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Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:23 pm |
I don't interpret a failure to mention Tetra C as a slam against it. I think it was just left out because the Vitamin C section was just one section of the entire book and not meant to cover everything on the topic.
That's my theory anyway, lol
BF |
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Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:49 am |
| Barefootgirl - could you tell me if she comments on Coffee Berry at all? |
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Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:51 am |
| I woulkd like to know what she says about laser resurfacing (face) |
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Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:43 am |
Update - Dr. Baumanns words on lasers, lights, IPL, etc.:
(let me preface something - all of my comments come from the viewpoint of anti-aging and skincare. Dr. Baumanns book contains a wealth of info for people with other conditions like hyperpigmentation, etc. Since I do not have any conditions, I skim those sections).
Summary -
traditional nonablative lasers do not appear to provide any improvement and traditional ablative lasers have too many potential negative side effects, however the newer technology with fractional resurfacing offers potential for improvement, she says the newer ablative fractional resurfacing (mentions Pixel,Cutera, ActiveFX and Lumenis) "look promising".
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Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:50 am |
The section on IPL is short, she basically explains the technology and how it is typically used. Seems to work best for treating "telangiectasias and dyspigmentations"
Photrejuvenation is mentioned, but no mention of collagen renewal - she doesn't appear to either endorse or be averse to the technology.
LEDs - Quote: "Several LEDs are currently available on the market in a range of wavelengths and pulse sequencing. To date, no one has demonstrated that one particular pulsing sequence is superior to another. Such studies, along with comparisons of different wavelengths are warranted to hone the use of these devices and perhaps expand the range of indications." The need for additional studies notwithstanding, the use of LEDs to activate aminovulinic acid has become an important component in photodynamic therapy." |
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Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:54 am |
| Barefootgirl wrote: |
I don't interpret a failure to mention Tetra C as a slam against it. I think it was just left out because the Vitamin C section was just one section of the entire book and not meant to cover everything on the topic.
That's my theory anyway, lol
BF |
It's also very possible that at the time of writing THDA wasn't often used or known of by most. This particular lipid C is fairly new on the market both in ready made topicals and as a DIY ingredient. Just a thought.  |
_________________
I'LL SEE YOU ON THE DARKSIDE OF THE MOON.... |
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Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:59 am |
Basically, it appears for LEDs that there is some evidence for wrinkle reduction, but she goes on to state that the clinical evidence shows the results are not as dramatic as they are with certain lasers.
She also mentions tightening devices such as Titan (also Cutera), Thermage, Accent, Palomar, etc. and indicates there is a lack of clinical evidence regarding their efficacy in skin tightening. Anedotal reports from patients and practitioners show they seem to work in some people, but not in others. |
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Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:00 am |
| GirlieGirl wrote: |
| Barefootgirl - could you tell me if she comments on Coffee Berry at all? |
She does mention Coffeeberry as having shown greater antioxidant activity than other substances such as green tea, pomegranate, etc. but cites lack of clinical evidence.
BF |
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| Sat Apr 20, 2024 3:44 am |
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