Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate vs. L-ascorbic acid
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skin Care and Makeup Forum

Mon Oct 25, 2010 1:55 pm

Hello,

I currently do use l-ascorbic acid, but I did do a little bit of research and apparently magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is one of the vitamin C derivatives people are using instead of or even in conjunction with l-ascorbyl phosphate.

The benefits of M.A.P. have been that apparently it is more stable than l-ascorbyl phosphate and there is less issue of sensitivity for people who are sensitive.

I don't know if these claims are supported by every source or not. I just did a little bit of research. I did get the impression that people often preferred to use "l-ascrobyl phosphate" just because of its name and its an ingredient they've been most comfortable with so there's no reason for them to change.

I would love to hear what people here have to say about these two ingredients... Does
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate have disadvantages? Is l-ascorbic acid better than
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate?

Thanks!

free skin care · Mon Oct 25, 2010 5:11 pm

L-Ascorbic Acid is King!

Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:10 pm

i would go for l-ascorbic acid, but the low PH may be problematic for some people with sensitive skin, in that case magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate would be an alternative choice.

free skin care · Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:23 pm

I really prefer THDA over MAP where C derivatives are concerned, I find it much more stable and effective. Smile

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/tetrahexyldecyl-ascorbate-BV-OSC.html

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a very stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C ester which has anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting lipid peroxidation. Topical use can mitigate the damaging effects of UV exposure. Studies have shown it to stimulate collagen production as well as clarifying and brightening the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis (the production of pigment) thereby promoting a more even skin tone. Unlike ascorbic acid, it will not exfoliate or irritate skin.

Typical Usage: .5-2%, up to 7%
Appearance: Clear to pale yellow viscous liquid
Storage: Store in a cool dry place, avoid freezing
Solubility: Oil Soluble

INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Caution: Do not directly apply onto your skin.
This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.

free skin care · Tue Oct 26, 2010 12:58 am

I prefer the C derivatives over l-ascorbic acid. I have sensitive skin and using l-ascorbic acid really burns. For some reason it also gives me large, painful, cystic-type bumps with days of using it, whether it be a commercial product or simple home-made l-ascorbic acid + water.

Even if I could use l-ascorbic acid I probably wouldn't because of the stability issues. Many serums based on it have begun to oxidise by the time the consumer gets them and oxidised ascorbic acid is a pro-oxidant.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is one of the most studied derivatives and certainly seems to offer most of the benefits of l-ascorbic acid, with substantially increased stability. Other derivatives are no doubt beneficial too, just not as well studied.

free skin care · Tue Oct 26, 2010 6:22 am

I use both LAA and THDA - I just alternate.
My skin is also a bit sensitive to LAA and I can not use it everyday. I mix the THDA with some oils for a really nice p.m serum.

free skin care · Tue Oct 26, 2010 6:27 am

erg wrote:

I use both LAA and THDA - I just alternate.
My skin is also a bit sensitive to LAA and I can not use it everyday. I mix the THDA with some oils for a really nice p.m serum.

I am not sensitive to LAA (or anything) but I use LAA and THDA daily one am and one pm! Smile

Just covering all the bases.

Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:03 am

DarkMoon wrote:

erg wrote:

I use both LAA and THDA - I just alternate.
My skin is also a bit sensitive to LAA and I can not use it everyday. I mix the THDA with some oils for a really nice p.m serum.

I am not sensitive to LAA (or anything) but I use LAA and THDA daily one am and one pm! Smile

Just covering all the bases.

Dark Moon:

Do you make your own? Or Purchase? I am a few days out of my Obagi 10% and am looking at making my own or buying it cheaper. Thanks!!

free skin care · Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:16 am

InSweetTime,

I do make my own, it's so simple and sooooo much less expensive! Laughing

Tue Oct 26, 2010 12:07 pm

Dark Moon:

Awesome. Where can I find the recipe? Do you know one with phloretin like skinceuticals cf phlorentin?

free skin care · Tue Oct 26, 2010 3:14 pm

InSweetTime wrote:

Dark Moon:

Awesome. Where can I find the recipe? Do you know one with phloretin like skinceuticals cf phlorentin?

InSweetTime,

I think Kassy has one with phloretin in it, I don't use it myself. I have a THDA recipe I posted in the recipe index that is where you will find the recipes that have been posted on the forum, just scroll down to the C recipes! Smile

Here's the link Smile

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11902

HTH

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