SK:IN cleanser and exfoliator - opinions
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Sat Feb 04, 2012 12:40 pm

Hello!

I am completely new to this so sorry in advance if I don't give enough or too much detail!

OK so skin problem/background etc

34 years old
Eats or tries to adhere to a low GI diet which includes fish, vegetables, wholegrains etc, low diary intake too.

Over the past two years my skin has changed into problematic, again. I've always suffered with acne on my face, back and chest but got it under control finally at 28 when I took a 6 month course of roaccutane. The wonderful affects lasted about 2 to 3 years.

In the past 2 years my skin just seems very troubled. I was diagnosed with mild PCOS when I was 30 which I think has contributed to my bad skin.

ANYWAY - the point of my post is I have been trying to sort my skin out by trying to track down the right cleansers/exfoliators, serums, moisturisers for my skin, which will have lasting results and not age my skin in the process.

About 6 weeks ago when I was going for a laser session at one of the SK:IN clinics in the UK, I got collared by the SA. I told her all my woes about my skin issues and she sold me:

SK:IN - Vitamin Rich Cleanser for oily skin - gycolic acid with evening primrose oil, vitamins A, C and E
SK:IN - Facial Exfoliating cleanser for oily skin - gycolic acid, Salicylic Acid and Glycerine

Now then, the exfoliater is harsh. Initially I used it once a day, but it was stripping my skin to the point I looked drawn, now I use this once to twice a week. The cleanser is less harsh and only leaves your face a little tight after use but absolutely fine once you use a serum and moisturiser.

The results - the big hard red spots on my chin have gone. The pores [I have deep / open pores] are cleaner. I have less blackheads on nose and generally I think the spots have cleared. However I don't think my skin looks clear as the SA had said it would - should look brighter and reduce scars. My skin is still very uneven, with red marks where all the spots were and still looks unhealthy. I also look very pale.

I am also still flaking and when I put on my [Dior forever skin foundation SPF 25] and the powder, within a couple of hours it's collected around all the dry patches, which are largely associated with the horrible red and purple scars I have left from the acne.

Does anyone else use this combination of products for their skin - ? What results/effects have you experienced? Should I move to the Obagi range?

My skin is also quite blotchy, uneven and has a mixture of ice pick scares, congested pores on the chin and around nose with some broken capillaries - what can I do to have a radiant and healthy looking skin again?

What moisturisers and serums are the best for this kind of skin? I have fine lines round my eyes and mouth [smile lines awww!] so obviously I would like something to help aging but not trouble my skin by giving me blemishes or filling my pores up.

My other regime is:

Dior serum [just sampling at the moment] or Neroli serum by Decleor [but only once or twice a week as otherwise I break out.
Clarins Extra Firming Day creme
I take 2 1000mg of Primrose oil a day too.

If anyone can battle through this long email and help I really would much appreciate it!

Thanks in advance for anyhelp,

Nahm

free skin care · Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:29 pm

Nutrition, only briefly - are you eating loads of oily fish (daily) or supplementing long chain omega-3s (DHA and EPA)? Did your GP or consultant or hospital dietician recommend the Evening Primrose for GLA? O-3s are powerful anti-inflammatories, help the skin hold water, important for hormone balance, weight management and blood sugar control. O-6s (evening primrose) are abundant in the Western diet, and most are actually inflammatory. The balance of O-3 to O-6 is critical but is wrong even in many healthy diets like yours. If you wish to stay on GLA I would suggest switching to borage oil, which contains fewer of the pro-inflammatory 0-6s. Are you getting enough vitamin D, especially since you are on a reduced dairy diet and it is winter here in the UK?

Honestly I would take the products back to the spa if they are as harsh as they sound. A good beautician would know PCOS skin needs a delicate hand. But do be aware you should not be exfoliating daily, just once a week given the other product also contains acids. Otherwise you break down the skin barrier which holds water in and keeps bacteria out. Do you know what the actives are in your other products? Obagi is VERY harsh - read the threads - and I don't think it deals with deeper scars.

First thing I'd suggest is switching to a gentle micronised zinc oxide sunscreen. Chemical sunscreens are irritant, but zinc calms skin (used in nappy cream!) and stops bacteria growth. Secondly purchase a basic salicylic acid peel, with as few additives as possible, and use weekly - this is likely the ingredient which has cleared your pores. Thirdly purchase or DIY DragoN's KinNiaNag serum.
http://www.skincaretalk.com/a/kinnianag-kinetin-b3-nag-antiaging-anti-acne-serum
Which is evidence based, raved about for acne AND ageing.

Then reassess. Only one change at once, or your skin could freak. Later options include a LightStim or other LED device for acne/ ageing, the rosacea light might actually suit you best! dermarolling or deeper chemical peels for scarring (can do these at home, practice with the light ones).

Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:03 am

Thanks [Firefox] for your detailed reply. It was interesting has made me reconsider aspects of my regime. The following looks to answer some of your queries and includes some of the products I am considering, so it would be great to get your feedback on these if you have any knowledge of the brands or specific products.

I take Efamol Pure Evening Primrose oil for tender breasts [connected to PCOS], which the Doctor is happy for me to do. I wouldn't be without it as in my case it definitely works as a cure. FYI - I've taken it for years. Itï¿½s ingredients read - Omega 6 = 755mg and GLA = 115mg.

In terms of oily fish weekly intake and general diet ï¿½ I probably eat a couple of portions of salmon a week and some tuna for protein. I probably do not eat enough vegetables and fruit - perhaps I eat 2 or 3 portions a day from the following foods - spinach, tomatoes, avocado, broccoli, peas, carrots, some bananas, grapes and tangerines [winter time]. I regularly eat about 5 Brazil nuts a day for Selenium. I have linseed bread daily, olive oil [no butters or margarines], some cottage cheese, yogurt, lots and lots of eggs [maybe 1 a day] and brown rice [I love Thai food]. Some cereals, like fruit and fibre, skimmed milk, one coffee a day. I drink nearly 2 litres of water a day but this is not always straight as I do drink a lot of sugar free Robinsonï¿½s barley, so maybe the artificial sweetener is reducing good vitamins in my diet? I do not supplement anything, which maybe I should? Hmmm now I come to think about i my diet maybe it isnï¿½t so good after all and is deficient in something - how can I have this checked?

I don't even know what foods hold vitamin D - but I think this could be a good call. As for borage oil I have never heard of this either, but if it would still curtail tender breasts I would be happy to give it a try.

As for the research - I've been reading the threads on my various complaints ALL weekend. It's been incredibly insightful. The Obagi came up a lot and yes it sounds like a topical form of roaccutane - which is hardcore.

As for active ingredients in the products I use - for the cleanser and exfoliator; what I wrote in the initial post is the only information I have. The others are as follows:

Dior foundation - Octinoxate [ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate] = 4.00% / Titanium Dioxide = 2.37%

Clarins extra firming day cream -

Euglena, Hop: help energise and firm.
Soft Wheat proteins: immediate 'lift' effect.
Anti-Pollution Complex (White Tea, Succory]

I can't find the details for the Capture Totale Dior serum.

But I am now on the market for:

Eye cream
Serum
Moisturiser
SPF
And of course new cleanser

Any recommendations for this - gentle micronised zinc oxide sunscreen?

and

Salicylic acid peel?

As for peels, I have considered gycolic and microdermabrasion - but I am a little reluctant to take the plunge both financially and long term as I hear peels thin the skin, which in my book means more lines [ahhh!]

From the forums I have pulled off these recommendations based on peoples convincing stories of success, my own interests and more natural based products:

Cleaners

Obagi Nu Derm
Burts Bees ï¿½ acne prone cleanser
Dr Hanushka ï¿½ daily cleaners
Eve Lom ï¿½ Daily Cleanser

Exfoliator

None found yet

Serum:

Celluar Skin RX - C + Firming Serum

Youth Complex ï¿½ IS Clinical

Moisturisers:

Skinceuticals - Daily Moisturiser
Cream extream - Moisturiser
Algenist - Reconstructive Cream
Renova
Retin A
Rosehip Hibiscus Scar Cream
Yonka Night creams
Eve Lom ï¿½ Daily Moisturiser
Dr Hanuska ï¿½ Daily Moisturiser
Burt Bees ï¿½ Acne Prone

Eye creams

Platinï¿½ Peptide CR Eye Crï¿½me - Vvier
Liz Earle Eye Creams
Jurilique Eye Creams

Sunscreen:

Kate Somerville SPF 55

I am very grateful for your advice [Firefox] and I am going to look into your recommendations, but if you have any others than please do share. Obviously foundations and powders affect our skins too, so I am happy to look at alternatives of what I am using now.

I look forward to hearing from you again!

Nahm

Sun Feb 05, 2012 2:23 pm

Hi Firefox [again]

Yes borage oil - or starflower - I've used this in the past and it's great, great stuff. I only stopped as I was taking the primrose for my tender breast problem. Now that this problem has eased do you think I can switch to borage or use both?

I'm looking into Salcylic you recommended and I can see why as it's great for scarring, but not sure where to buy - any recommendations?

I looked up Vitamin D on wikipedia [of course] but it's just confused me, there seems to be different vitamin Ds - do you know what mg amount I should take a day? A brand recommendation would be great. Or can I introduce it through diet?

I can't believe I've spent my whole weekend researching, but I think it's been time well spent. I've learned a lot and hope I can make the right purchases now.

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