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Lecthin emulsifying problem. Help!

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KARTERLEE
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Thu Oct 25, 2012 12:16 am      Reply with quote
Trying to create a light facial lotion with lecthin as the emulsifier.



Roughly 20/80 oil in water emulsion with 1% lecthin as the sole emulsifier.



The emulstion isn't really taking. It seems all the oil parts clump up into a super greasy, cottage cheese apperence (so hard to clean off), leaving the water completly seperate. nixweiss.
Any suggestions?
.......................
Chlorophyll
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Thu Oct 25, 2012 2:49 am      Reply with quote
Lecithin has an HBL of 3. It can't be used alone for o/w. You need something with a high HBL also, and maybe even a gum (or something else) to stabilize it with. Good luck!
cm5597
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Sat Dec 22, 2012 11:57 am      Reply with quote
What is an HBL? Thanks!

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Chlorophyll
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Sat Dec 22, 2012 12:16 pm      Reply with quote
It's the system that is used for nonionic emulsifiers. Lower numbers mean more lipid-loving, and higher numbers mean more water-loving. For an oil-in-water or a water-in-oil emulsion you usually need both & sometimes a suspension agent and/or emulsion stabilizer depending on the formula.

It's actually a somewhat complex system to explain in one sitting. You'd probably be better off googling it than asking anyone here. Either that, or you can find a blog or downloadable e-book from someone who puts it into newbie speak. I think that's how most of us started out.

If you don't want to be bothered with all the math, you could just buy a complete emulsifier from a supplier. E-wax, polowax, etc.
queenpedauque
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Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:16 pm      Reply with quote
This is interesting because I just went back to a cream that I made & used years ago.
It's lecithin w/rosewater & witch hazel.
I have no trouble with emulsifying the lecithin. I use a blender. It must be the witch hazel that helps emulsify.
hth
My skin was really dry and aged looking and I knew I needed help. The lecithin seems to be working for me.
Lotusesther
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Sat Dec 22, 2012 5:53 pm      Reply with quote
Without any theory but from practice I can tell you 1% emulsifier is not enough. I usually do 5% lecithin and when needed add a dash of e-wax for good measure. Borax will also do in a pinch but is no longer recommended.
Try re-heating the lotion and mix in some more lecithin and, if you have it on hand, about 1% of e-wax.
queenpedauque
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Sun Dec 23, 2012 1:52 pm      Reply with quote
Oh I forgot to say I use oil w/the lecithin, rosewater & witch hazel. Embarassed
cm5597
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Sun Dec 23, 2012 5:38 pm      Reply with quote
Chlorophyll wrote:
It's the system that is used for nonionic emulsifiers. Lower numbers mean more lipid-loving, and higher numbers mean more water-loving. For an oil-in-water or a water-in-oil emulsion you usually need both & sometimes a suspension agent and/or emulsion stabilizer depending on the formula.

It's actually a somewhat complex system to explain in one sitting. You'd probably be better off googling it than asking anyone here. Either that, or you can find a blog or downloadable e-book from someone who puts it into newbie speak. I think that's how most of us started out.

If you don't want to be bothered with all the math, you could just buy a complete emulsifier from a supplier. E-wax, polowax, etc.


Thank you! I couldn't find what it meant, but with your clue, Chlorophyyll, I can now find it. It stands for hydrophobic and lyophilic balance (HBL).

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