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Fri Jul 12, 2013 10:49 am  |
Hey everyone!
I've been a long time lurker of the EDS forums (2 years or so  ) but finally decided to create an account before I attempt my first DIY!
I've been using a 20% LAA serum (UNT's C*Clarity) for almost half a year now but they recently stopped making it so I decided to take the plunge into DIY serums!
I was originally too scared to make my own LAA serum (it seemed quite complex / short term) so bought some oils (black currant, which I love, borage, macadamia & sea blackthorn) and THDA from BulkActives.
When I was reading the forums for THDA recipes, I saw that Kassy recommended making one using both THDA and LAA.
I found her recipe in one of the forums:
22% VIT C SERUM (L-AA + THDA)
10% L-AA (water soluble)
7% THDA (oil soluble)
2% Alpha Lipoic Acid (oil soluble)
1% Ferulic Acid (alcohol soluble)
3% Macadamia OR Grapeseed Oil (both have high vitamin E content and are lovely on the skin, without leaving a greasy feel.)
1% Polysorbate 80 (or emulsifier of your choice)
1% Vodka (for dissolving FA only, both can be left out if you choose.)
75% Distilled Water
I don't want to use Ferulic and so am leaving it and the Vodka out.
I just had some questions / clarifications that I hope you guys could clear up before I go on to make this serum?
1. I was thinking of slightly adjusting this serum to use 20% LAA. Can I mix that with around 10% THDA to make a 30% serum? As far as I understand, THDA does not sting in the same way as LAA, and since I can already use 20% LAA without any issues, would this be okay? How should the recipe be adjusted for this?
2. I couldn't find Poly80 on the BulkActives site (out of stock) so only bought LAA, THDA & ALA. Can I use HA serum as an emulsifier? Or Glycerine?
3. Instead of distilled water, I was thinking of using thermal water (I've got some from Vichy & La-Roche Posay). Would this be okay?
4. How do I convert the percentages into MLs or tablespoon measurements? Most recipes I've read use 1 tablespoons of LAA powder. How about the rest? I tried to use Lotioncrafter's calculator but didn't know how to use it 
5. I'm thinking of making around 30 ml for this serum. Can anyone help me with the measurements?
Thank you very much to everyone on the EDS forum! I've read and learned a lot over the years 
Also, this is what I read for instructions (can someone clarify if they are incorrect?):
1. Mix the LAA with the distilled water in one glass.
2. Mix the THDA with chosen oil in another glass. Then add the ALA and stir well.
3. Mix the emulsifier with the THDA mixture.
4. Slowly add and stir the THDA mixture with the LAA mixture.
5. Pour the final mixture into a glass bottle & refrigerate. |
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Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:04 am |
Okay, I think I got the percentages thing (as a recent Economics grad, I feel a bit stupid for not knowing to begin with ) I'm gonna try and work it all out to find measurements needed to make a 30ml (1.014oz) serum. Math heavy (and doesn't fully make sense to me) but quantity at the bottom of this post! Please someone correct me if I completely messed up the measurements!
The point of percentages are that they remain the same despite the amount of serum made. So in a 50ml serum, 10% of it must be LAA. In a 20ml serum, 10% of it must be LAA. The only thing that changes is the amount & to find out how much that is, we have to calculate the % of total amount of serum.
Percentages also need to add up to make 100%. So by taking out the FA and the Vodka, we're left with 2% which we can either add to LAA or THDA to make the total 100%. Since I want more of LAA, I'll add 12% LAA to my serum.
Q. Can I decrease the percentage of Distilled Water to increase the percentage of LAA to 20%? This would leave 67% Distilled Water.
Taking out FA & Vodka, this is our new recipe:
12% L-AA (water soluble)
7% THDA (oil soluble)
2% Alpha Lipoic Acid (oil soluble)
3% Macadamia Oil
1% Polysorbate 80 (or emulsifier of your choice)
75% Distilled Water
= 100%
Then, to make a 30ml serum, our measurements should be:
12% of 30 ml = 12/100 x 30 = 3.6ml LAA.
Since LAA is in powder form, we can convert it to grams:
In a recipe from Lotioncrafters, they suggest using 0.35 oz of LAA to make 10% of a 3.5 oz serum.
30 ml makes 1.014 oz (US).
12% of 1.014oz = 12/100 x 1.014 = 0.122 oz.
Using Google, 0.122oz = 3.5g (rounded up).
For ALA (if it comes in powder form):
2% of 1.014oz = 2/100 x 1.014 = 0.02oz.
Using Google, 0.02oz = 0.6g (rounded).
For ALA (if it comes in liquid form):
2% of 30ml = 2/100 x 30 = 0.6ml.
For THDA (liquid):
7% of 30ml = 7/100 x 30 = 2.1ml.
For the oil:
3% of 30ml = 3/100 x 30 = 0.9ml.
For the emulsifier (liquid):
1% of 30ml = 1/100 x 30 = 0.3ml.
For the distilled water:
75% of 30ml = 75/100 x 30 = 22.5ml.
Thus, to make a 30ml serum using the following recipe:
12% L-AA (water soluble)
7% THDA (oil soluble)
2% Alpha Lipoic Acid (oil soluble)
3% Macadamia Oil
1% Polysorbate 80 (or emulsifier of your choice)
75% Distilled Water
Our measurements are:
3.5 grams L-AA
2.1 ml THDA (oil soluble
0.6 grams (or 0.6 ml) Alpha Lipoic Acid
0.9 ml Macadamia Oil
0.3 ml Polysorbate 80 (or any other emulsifier)
22.5 ml Distilled Water
Phew! I think all that is correct. Someone please tell me if it isn't before I burn my face!
Hope this helps other lurkers out there! |
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Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:05 am |
Now, I just have two small questions that I'd be REALLY grateful if someone could answer!
1. I couldn't find Poly80 on the BulkActives site (out of stock) so only bought LAA, THDA & ALA. Can I use HA serum as an emulsifier? Or Glycerine?
2. Instead of distilled water, I was thinking of using thermal water (I've got some from Vichy & La-Roche Posay). Would this be okay? |
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Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:16 am |
| emjaaay wrote: |
Now, I just have two small questions that I'd be REALLY grateful if someone could answer!
1. I couldn't find Poly80 on the BulkActives site (out of stock) so only bought LAA, THDA & ALA. Can I use HA serum as an emulsifier? Or Glycerine?
2. Instead of distilled water, I was thinking of using thermal water (I've got some from Vichy & La-Roche Posay). Would this be okay? |
The polysorbate is such a small quantity that it you substitute with HA it won't really make much difference. You can use HA (I've used it in my serums, but with a larger amount and less water). Or you can increase the water by 0.3ml. Either way without the poly you'll need to shake it before use as it will separate. Glyercerine would probably work as well, could still separate.
I think you could sub in the thermal water. I've used various hydrosols in mine. |
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Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:55 am |
| ShastaGirl wrote: |
The polysorbate is such a small quantity that it you substitute with HA it won't really make much difference. You can use HA (I've used it in my serums, but with a larger amount and less water). Or you can increase the water by 0.3ml. Either way without the poly you'll need to shake it before use as it will separate. Glyercerine would probably work as well, could still separate.
I think you could sub in the thermal water. I've used various hydrosols in mine. |
Thank you so much! I'll use some HA 
Btw, do I still need to worry about the pH when using HA? |
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Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:57 am |
Okay, a most probably stupid question, but how does 10% LAA and 7% THDA make this a 22% Vit C serum? Wouldn't that make it a 17% serum?  |
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Sat Jul 13, 2013 4:27 pm |
| emjaaay wrote: |
Btw, do I still need to worry about the pH when using HA? |
I've never had a pH problem when using HA and I test pH with each batch.
Also, on your other question, you're right, the initial recipe is 17%. If you up the LAA to 15% you'd have 22% between the two C actives. Seems that I recall dialog on this recipe a few years ago relating to that. |
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Sat Jul 13, 2013 5:33 pm |
| ShastaGirl wrote: |
I've never had a pH problem when using HA and I test pH with each batch.
Also, on your other question, you're right, the initial recipe is 17%. If you up the LAA to 15% you'd have 22% between the two C actives. Seems that I recall dialog on this recipe a few years ago relating to that. |
A right gotcha! I was worried I was missing something think I'll make small batches of this, slowly increasing the LAA while decreasing the water & see how I do thanks so much for all the help!
Another teeny tiney question (lol so sorry!) - the HA I use is very thin & watery (its a Japanese one, the Hada Labo Super Hyaluronic Acid Moisturising Lotion [lotion is basically what they call toner]). If I can dissolve the LAA in it, would it be safe to replace the distilled water with the HA serum?
The serum (well toner really) is reportedly pH balanced and alcohol free / very minimal ingredients. Here is a list:
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether, Disodium Succinate, Methyl Paraben, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Succinic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate |
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