Hyperpigmentation serum/cream. Urgent
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare

Sun Aug 18, 2013 12:46 am

Hello everyone,

I am trying to formulate a whitening serum/cream for my hyper pigmentation. Can someone please review my formulation below and offer advice, please? Does it look alright? Any adjustments? Thanks ^_^

Phase A
Ellagic acid - 3%
Noah - 8%

Phase B
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate -7%
Polysorbate 80 - 1
Lecithin – 5
Jojoba or Bisabolol oil – 12%
Vitamin e oil - 1

Phase C
Distilled water - 26
Soy isoflavones – 2
Allantoin - 2
Niacinamide – 2.5
Nac - 2.5
Licorice extract - 3
Ginkgo Biloba - 2.5
(Yeast) beta 1-3 Glucan – 2
Sea Emollient - 16
Dex panthenol - 3
Phenoxyethanol – 0.5

P.S i've used ellagic acid in the past with great success Smile

free skin care · Sun Aug 18, 2013 3:19 am

I just looked up ellagic acid. It kills cancer, so its a great addition to skincare. In what form do you use it and where do you buy it?

Sun Aug 18, 2013 4:32 am

catski wrote:

I just looked up ellagic acid. It kills cancer, so its a great addition to skincare. In what form do you use it and where do you buy it?

Thank you, yes indeed it is a great addition to any skincare routine, my face is looking like glass at present, flawless, it's that effective. I've diy'd with EA before, however, i am not 100% confident so asking for assistance before i proceed, do not want to waste my actives ^_^

I would also recommend raspberry ketones, natural and also very effective.

I usually purchase EA powder from skinessentialactives, though it seems they are currently out of stock.

I am not allowed to post links as i am new here, sorry.

free skin care · Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:28 am

Hi R&F,

I've never worked with Ellagic Acid, but are you sure you're going to need 8% NaOH (is that a 1 N solution?) ...that seems really high. What is your final pH?

If you don't get enough answers over here, you might try another board (I'm not sure I'm allowed to post that link, but I can pm you, if you're interested).

Eta: it seems suggested usage is up to 1% for EA and that it is very difficult to get into solution. Do you have a reason for going with 3%? More is not necessarily better! I'm just concerned with the amount of NaOH.... You would probably need to bring the final pH down with citric acid ??

Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:49 am

bacchus wrote:

Hi R&F,

I've never worked with Ellagic Acid, but are you sure you're going to need 8% NaOH (is that a 1 N solution?) ...that seems really high. What is your final pH?

If you don't get enough answers over here, you might try another board (I'm not sure I'm allowed to post that link, but I can pm you, if you're interested).

Yes, please can you provide me with the link.

I usually dissolve 0.40g lye to 10g water for a 1N solution, i then gradually add a bit at a time until the ellagic acid has been dissolved. 8% was just a a benchmark as i will be using 3% ellagic acid which of 5g of the solution made is required to dissolve every gram of EG.

Ellagic acid is lovely, i've made an old formulation of mine today as i've not had the desired response here. Hopefully by the time this cream has finished i can make the posted recipe.

I recommend it, however it makes an ugly cream ^_^ Who cares, it works :

Edit, the ph of my EA formulations is usually around 5.5-5.7. Citric acid to lower ph, and lye to increase, etc.
I've gradually increased the % of EA over a few months from 1-2, now 3%. I just adore this active.

free skin care · Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:57 am

Phew! Sounds like you know what you're doing .... I was perhaps overly concerned that you were going to be putting some overly caustic solution onto your face. Shock

I sent you PM with link.

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