AHA/BHA/Glycolic acid
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free skin care · Tue Jul 26, 2005 3:08 am

Pardon my ignorance but what exactly do these do? I have been trawling past threads to find a new cleanser to replace my current one and would like one gentle enough for my combo/sensitive skin. Noticed the MDF Glycolic cleanser is mentioned quite a bit...but wat is glycolic n wat does it do? Im currently using this brand called Belle Wave which is recommended to me by my beautician....not sure wat ingredients ... will check it out back home. Oh, also read Yonka Gel nettoyant is quite good? Anyone has comments on that?

Tue Jul 26, 2005 5:36 am

The short version is that AHAs (Aplha Hydroxy Acids) help exfoliate the surface of the skin while BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are better able to penetrate the pores so they help clean them out. BHAs are often found in anti-acne products, although they are often combined with AHAs as well to keep the surface of the skin free of dead skin cells that might contribute to clogging pores.

Glycolic acid is an AHA. Salicylic acid is a BHA.

I've used both the MD Formulations cleanser you're talking about and the YonKa Gel Nettoyant. The YonKa is a very good cleanser (and great at taking off makeup) and does not have any AHAs or BHAs (as far as I remember). The MD Formulations cleanser has 10% glycolic acid (i.e. 10% AHA). I found it to be effective but felt that it was a bit drying at the same time. Certainly more so than the YonKa.

free skin care · Tue Jul 26, 2005 6:31 am

I use the MDF and love it. I have never tried the Yonka, so I can't compare though. The MDF is very gentle. At the very beginning, it tingled a bit, but since then, I have had no reaction to it. I have only been using it in warmer months, while it has been humid. My skin isn't dry now. Winter may be a different story though.

free skin care · Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:43 am

Thanks...does it mean that glycolic acid and other AHAs/BHAs are meant to treat acne prone skin? I get the occasional breakouts...and seem to be getting them more frequent these days so looking for something that will help clear my skin up. Still not sure what is causing my breakout...but ive changed my skincare routine quite drastically of late so could be due to that?? My skin surface tends to be dehydrated ... will MDF be too harsh/drying for me? Mabsy, why do u like the Yonka Gel Nettoyant? Being able to remove make-up sounds harsh....im used to more gentle cleansers n usually rely on cleansing oil to remove make up instead.

free skin care · Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:55 am

On ebay, you can purchase 2 oz size of the cleansers for about $3. I would try that to see if you like it. AHAs and BHAs can be used to treat problem skin. I use AHAs for anti- aging purposes, but sometimes BHAs to clean my pores.

Wed Jul 27, 2005 2:01 am

mojocat wrote:

Thanks...does it mean that glycolic acid and other AHAs/BHAs are meant to treat acne prone skin? I get the occasional breakouts...and seem to be getting them more frequent these days so looking for something that will help clear my skin up. Still not sure what is causing my breakout...but ive changed my skincare routine quite drastically of late so could be due to that?? My skin surface tends to be dehydrated ... will MDF be too harsh/drying for me? Mabsy, why do u like the Yonka Gel Nettoyant? Being able to remove make-up sounds harsh....im used to more gentle cleansers n usually rely on cleansing oil to remove make up instead.

BHA is one of the ways to treat acne-prone skin and this is often used in combination with AHAs which can also help. I don't think the MDF is too harsh but in general AHA products tend to be a bit drying.

I like the Gel Nettoyant because it is gentle and feels comfortable on the skin. It can also remove my eye makeup without stinging my eyes. I really like cleansing oils as well though so if you're happy with the one you're using then stick with it.

free skin care · Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:26 am

Hi Mojocat,
AHA'a and BHA's are also one of the few clinically proven anti-aging treatments. In addition to what others have said, AHA and BHA are considered effective exfoilants which help in removing old, dead skin cells thus rejuvenating new skin cell growth. Here is a summary of AHA and BHA- http://www.skincareresourcecenter.com/Skin-Rejuvenation.html .
I use a 8% (AHA) glylcolic gel before applying my moisturizer after I have washed and toned my face. That way it has an opportunity to work for a longer period of time during the day. Many research sources state that using a skin rejuvenating treatment as a facial wash just pours your $ down the drain.
I do have to admit- since I don't want to miss any opportunity to address my own aging skin issues- that I do use the generic version of Olay's anti-aging "daily renewal" cleanser found at WalMart. But if you want to achieve the best effects from using an AHA product, try a toner, moisturizer or gel with at least a 8% up to a 15% concentration of gylcolic acid. (It can sting, so start out slowly so your skin has an opportunity to get use to it!)

free skin care · Wed Jul 27, 2005 6:37 am

The cellularskinrx people are having a "get a free polishing grains" when you buy their Age-Limit serum. It's a 10% glycolic/lactic acid mix that is made to be used by even sensitive skin. I use it on my off-Retin-A nights. Very nice texture the next AM. The grains are nice, too. I add them to my cleanser or just add to plain water to make a nice, gentle scrub. I've even had fun adding salicylic acid powder to them with rice bran oil to sort of make a blackhead removal mask. Anyhow, just an FYI.

free skin care · Thu Jul 28, 2005 8:27 am

Thanks for all the input!! Smile

im still scratching my head over what cleanser to invest in. Do AHAs thin the skin n cause it to be more photo sensitive? I m prone to hyper pigmentation so wanna be sure im not doing myself a disservice!! Ive also had a look at some of the Sothys cleansers.... there's the Purifying Gel and another one called Nettoyant Mousse or something? Ive read the reviews on the Purifying Gel, seems like it could be too drying. Has anyone tried the Nettoyant mousse?

free skin care · Thu Jul 28, 2005 8:33 am

If you use AHAs excessively, you will peel, and that will thin your skin. Products like MD Formuations have a higher pH though, so I do not think it is bad to use them daily. For a peel the pH should be around 2 (for a home peel), but the cleanser is 3.8 It is quite gentle.

They will make you more photosensitive though, so, just put on at least an spf of 30 (really, the higher the better, especially if you have hyperpigmentation) every. Something we should all be doing anyway. Wink

Sun Sep 30, 2007 6:04 pm

Please excuse my ignorance, but with what seems to be a common opinion of BHAs for acne/problem skin... I'd really like to know more.

Are these acids in the common sense of the term? Do they break down (maybe just dead) skin? Can you use it on broken skin? Or am I missing something? Is it like having a gentle, gradual skin peel? And what are the negatives?

Sorry for all the questions... I'd really like to hear from someone who's maybe had acne/problem skin and used BHAs.

Thank you x

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