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Mon Mar 06, 2006 9:43 pm  |
OK, this might be old hat and I might be the only one who did not know it, but I found this article:
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Phytoceuticals passes the secret on
09/12/2003 - PhytoCeuticals a developer and manufacturer of proprietary formulations for skin care has terminated its longstanding contract with Skinceuticals. Instead it has choosen Is Clinical by Innovative Skincare to exclusively supply with its top secret Vitamin C formulations.
"Skinceuticals has had exclusive access to our products for years now. They've used our formulations to build a very respected and successful brand of products. We think it's time other interested customers had that opportunity too, said Dr Mostafa Omar, president of PhytoCeuticals. |
The rest of the article can bee seen at http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/news/ng.asp?id=48354-phytoceuticals-passes-the
Interesting website!!  |
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Mabsy
Moderator
 
Joined: 17 Aug 2003
Posts: 9644
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Tue Mar 07, 2006 3:04 am |
This was quite some time ago but I don't think I have seen this either. I wonder if that is why Skinceuticals was having supply issues (and were consequently dropped by EDS)? I also wonder where this leaves Skinceuticals now - chaning their formulations?
Also, as an aside, I never thought that Skinceuticals serums were the most stable on the market (though they certainly were effective) and this might explain why my IS Clinical C serum samples have been a bit on the yellow side... Though, I am still torn over whether a serum turning yellow decreases its effectiveness or not. My experience with a rather yellowy Cellex-C serum would suggest that it was still very much effective. |
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45, NW20, combination skin |
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Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:22 am |
My cellex-c is quite yellowy (actually was that way I think when I got it from Sephora) but it has done wonders for my skin.
I am looking forward to trying some samples of Vivier, JB C&C and IS Clinical when the bottle is finished though!! |
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Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:17 am |
Actually it IS old hat, but it's interesting reading nevertheless...
I think the switch occurred long before Skinceuticals began having delivery problems.
As for the stability question, more than one physician has told me that the discoloration, unless we're talking about the serum turning dark brown and grainy, is not a sign of diminished effectiveness. In my experience, I'd have to say that it's true - I've used a variety of Vitamin C serums in the past, including my Super Serum. Whatever other complaints I may have had about particular brands, it wasn't that they became less effective.... |
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Tue Mar 07, 2006 12:02 pm |
At the great risk of seeming like a navel gazer, I'm wondering how one really judges the effectiveness of a Vit.C serum, especially one that's turned a different color? I've only been using C sera since last summer, and while I love how they feel on my skin, it's my understanding that Vit.C sera aren't the types of products whose benefits are immediately apparent. Maybe I just haven't used them long enough to notice any dramatic change yet. But I worry that if they oxidize, wouldn't this effect their ability to benefit the skin, especially when it comes to something like reducing photo-sensitivity?
l-ascorbic acid forms of C sera are thought by some scientists to be the only form that can penetrate the skin and impart some kind of benefit. They're not as stable as other types of C though, which may not turn as quickly, but may also be less effective, if at all. It may be that other ingredients in certain C sera products impart some kind of benefit, like moisturization, but considering what they generally cost, there are lots of cheaper moisturizers.
Bottom line -- I'm a bit nervous about using a C serum that has turned. If it's turned, wouldn't it be an oxidant rather than an anti-oxidant? I guess I can understand what katee's doc have told her, and try not to worry too much if my serum has changed color. But I DO worry!
For all I know, I may be using other types of cosmetic products that also oxidize and I just don't realize it! |
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Tue Mar 07, 2006 11:11 pm |
A pharmacist friend explained to me about vitamin c formulations. Once vitamin c comes into contact with air, it starts oxidising and really is of little use after 2 weeks of refridgeration storage.
She explained that some vitamin c formulations don't turn colour due to preservative content. For example, vitamin c with propylene glycol base has a better preservative action than say a vitamin c formulation in a water base. Also when you add preservatives, the ingredient stays inert, I'm gonna ask her if this affects the efficacy of the product. |
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Wed Mar 08, 2006 11:15 am |
I use C serum when it is yellowy as long as it doesn't have a brown or orange-y color to it or a smell that is not fresh to it, and I have had no problems so far from it and don't think that yellow color is a sign of serious oxidation.. they probably should use more preservatives or a different base though..  |
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