Good discussion on naturals and organics from "In-Cosme
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skin Care and Makeup Forum

free skin care · Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:26 am

Amarjit Sahota, Director of Organic Monitor talks to in-cosmetics

1. What is the difference between ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ products?

The difference between natural and organic cosmetics is the ingredient composition. Natural cosmetics are made from plant extracts and / or natural ingredients, whereas organic cosmetics contain organic ingredients.

2. What are the certifications for ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ products?

At the moment, there are only private standards for natural and organic cosmetics. The terms ‘natural and organic’ are not protected by law so it is very easy for a company to market their cosmetic products as natural and organic. In comparison, there are national and regional regulations for organic foods. For instance, the EU and European countries have regulations for organic food production and marketing. However, there are no such regulations for natural and organic cosmetics. The most common natural standards is BDIH, and the most widely used organic standards are those of Soil Association and Ecocert. Products certified by these agencies have their symbols and logos e.g. Soil Association, Ecocert, BDIH.

3. Why do you think we have seen such a huge increase in demand for natural ingredients over the last few years?

A number of factors are responsible. Firstly, consumers are becoming more discerning in their buyer behaviour. They are considering ethical and environmental factors when buying products like foods, cosmetics, clothing, furniture, etc. The high demand for organic, fair trade and sustainable products is a reflection of this trend.
Another major factor is that consumers are becoming more aware of the possible dangers of chemicals in cosmetics & toiletries. Media stories about the possible links between synthetic chemicals and human conditions like eczema, cancer, etc. are making consumers seek products that do not have such chemicals. Natural and organic cosmetics are becoming popular because they generally avoid synthetic chemicals like parabens, phthalates, etc.
Lastly, demand for organic foods is percolating to non-food products like cosmetics and textiles. Consumers are realising that chemicals in cosmetics are potentially as harmful as those in foods. Organic food shops and supermarkets like Tesco and Waitrose are thus expanding their organic product ranges from foods to cosmetics.

4. Many consumers purchase natural products for environmental reasons, but the packaging it is contained in is often non-recyclable or not environmentally friendly Do you think trends will lead more towards an overall ‘green’ product and service?

This is definitely something that natural & organic cosmetics are looking at. However, only a few companies have undertaken such initiatives. For instance, Aveda has been using Post-Consumer-Recycled content in its packaging for a number of years. Its products use packaging that contains over 70 percent PCR content.
Natural & organic cosmetic companies are looking at biodegradable packaging and environmentally-friendly packaging, however the challenge is ensuring the packaging performance remains high. We expect more companies to start using green packaging as packaging companies make product improvements and prices go down.

5. How is the current industry trend of mergers and acquisitions going to affect the ‘naturals’ industry considering the clash of stakeholder interests (environmental vs. profit)?

The level of mergers & acquisitions activity is expected to increase as natural & organic cosmetics continue to become mainstream. In the last 18 months, we have seen companies like L’Oreal and Clarins come into the market by M&A. Private equity firms and large organic food companies like Hain Celestial have also been involved in M&A.
We do not see M&A really affecting share-holder interests since some acquisitions like The Body Shop are left independent when acquired. This ensures the brand values and company ethos remain intact when the firm becomes part of a larger company.

6. There is currently a backlash in some circles against naturals and in favour of chemicals, claiming that naturals are unstable, unpredictable and more likely to cause allergic reactions. How do you think this will be resolved?

There is an issue about some natural & organic products in that the formulations are less stable because they do not contain synthetic chemicals. This is a reason why many natural & organic cosmetic products still contain parabens. This is expected to become less of an issue as more natural & organic ingredients come into the market. As the range of natural cosmetic ingredients and especially preservatives and surfactants increases, the stability of natural & organic products is expected to improve.

7. Can surfactants and preservatives be ultimately be replaced by naturals?

This is a major concern for natural & organic cosmetic companies who are trying to replace chemical surfactants and preservatives with natural alternatives. There are natural preservatives that can be used as substitutes for parabens however the performance is not always as good as parabens. Also, cost is another major issue as natural replacements can cost much more than synthetic chemicals.
As large cosmetic ingredient companies like Cognis increase R&D activities on natural & organic cosmetic ingredients, we expect the performance of these ingredients to improve and costs to come down.

8. What are the current hottest natural ingredients on the market?

This is a difficult question since such a wide range of natural ingredients are being used by natural & organic cosmetic companies. Some companies are increasingly using food ingredients like cocoa, citrus and green tea. Others are using novel ingredients sourced from the Amazon rain forest, Australian bush and African botanicals. Other novel ingredients include hemp and biodynamic ingredients (which are similar to organic but are made according to a stricter set of principles).

9. 'If you wouldn't want to eat it, don't put it on your skin'. How far do you think this maxim is true?

This is partly true since some chemicals found in cosmetics are more likely to be found in industrial applications than in food, for instance propylene glycol and formaldehyde. However, one has to remember that when a person ingests food, it goes directly into the body; whereas, cosmetics & toiletries are filtered by the human skin, which protects against many harmful substances coming into the bloodstream. So I would say this maxim is only partially true.

free skin care · Fri Oct 19, 2007 11:59 am

Thanks for posting this well reasoned Q&A about the trend toward organic, sustainable, eco-friendly and fair trade goods. It really is the next level of production in developed countries. And hopefully our awareness will promote this same awareness in the third world without stifling their economic growth and way of life.

free skin care · Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:53 am

John C. Hill wrote:

9. 'If you wouldn't want to eat it, don't put it on your skin'. How far do you think this maxim is true?

This is partly true since some chemicals found in cosmetics are more likely to be found in industrial applications than in food, for instance propylene glycol and formaldehyde. However, one has to remember that when a person ingests food, it goes directly into the body; whereas, cosmetics & toiletries are filtered by the human skin, which protects against many harmful substances coming into the bloodstream. So I would say this maxim is only partially true.

My very simplistic take on this has always been "what's good for you inside is also good for you outside". I use this in formulating my DIY.

free skin care · Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:14 pm

I never really cared before, but after a year of trying to buy organic food, suddenly it hit me that I was still putting tons of chemicals ON my body. I switched to Dr. Hauschka and my skin actually got better. I'm still amazed. and sold on the idea that we don't need chemicals to make our skin look good. Thanks for posting the information.

free skin care · Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:29 pm

Thank you John for such an informative post. With the growing popularity of "natural" and "organic" products, it's nice to clear up the difference between the two!

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