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I think i'm damaging my skin...
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natefan87
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:01 am      Reply with quote
...okay. a little background. im 21, male (probably the only guy on here lol!), with acne. About a year ago, i got put on retin a .025 and it worked WONDERS for me. At this same time, i also discovered AHA's and used weekly chemical peels (from MUAC), as well as the retin a AS WELL AS alpha hydrox souffle. My skin was glooooriously perfect. Now...it's dull, rough and just...awful looking. For a while i had stopped wth the weekly peels, but about two weeks ago i started again and it's just not working like it used to. I look tired, and quite frankly, ugly. I think your skin plays a VITAL role in how you appear, and i just feel really ugly.

So my question is, have i over done it with the exfoliation? I really want my skin to look good again. I ordered the PSF Vitamin C serum, im hoping that will bring things back. I also am going to go buy the alpha hydrox souffle again, cuz i havent used it in a while.

Maybe i thinned my skin too much? I really don't know what's going on.

Any help would be great. thank u
natefan87
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:55 am      Reply with quote
anyone? Sad
edenfield
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:00 pm      Reply with quote
i'd say stop with the acids, switch to a non-irritating cleanser and moisturizing routine.

did you use sunscreen during all of this peeling? sun damage could be the culprit
miranets
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:24 pm      Reply with quote
when using retinoids you should avoid acids and exfoliation, retinoids may not affect the skin for several weeks so if you try to speed up the process it is very damaging for the skin barrier. i'd say you have a case of a very irritated and disrupted skin barrier, try going off all retinoids and acids, just use a relipidising skin moisturiser and sunscreen for a while, then gently add other things back into your routine.

at this stage don't be concerned about using more exfoliants to brighten up the skin, you really risk long term damage and irritation.
natefan87
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:40 pm      Reply with quote
good idea. so just...stop all actives and focus on moisturizing? for how long, a week?

i have emu oil so that should work pretty good and im gonna buy the Clinique City Block Spf 25 bc its physical not chemical spf.
havana8
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:55 pm      Reply with quote
here's a good post from h.kitty with suggestions on repairing skin barrier:

h.kitty wrote:
ritas wrote:
Hey All,
Thnx for your reply. I have one confusion.
Most of suggested creme/lotion has vitamin A or retinol as main ingredients.
I used lots of creme with vitamin A or retinol but that makes me peel heavily. So I am wondering that will result in further thinning my skin and how it will help me in thickening it?
Please advise


Some ingredients that strenghten the skin barrier are niacinamide and a mixture of ceramindes/cholesterol/fatty acids. Petrolatum is also great for repairing acute damage to the skin barrier.

Some products that contain niacinamide are Olay-the Total Effects, Regenerist and Definity lines. Nicomide T Cream has niacinamide but I am not sure that this is still being sold. Nia contains a variant of niacinamide called pro-niacin and would also be a good choice.

Some products that contain a version of the lipid mix that I disussed are the Cerave Cream or Lotion that fleinehhy mentioned. Osmotics also has several products that contain a version of the triple lipid mix. They call their mixture the Barrier Repair Technology and it is found in the following products TriCeram, Cream Extreme and Anti-Radical Age Defense.

Good old Aquaphor is a fine ointment which contains mostly petrolatum and is not cosmetically elegant but I like it as an occaional use product for my face.

I have used or sampled many of the products I mentioned so if you want any additional information let me know.
Alley
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:00 pm      Reply with quote
natefan87 I think you need to skip everything but moisturizers for longer than a week, maybe until your skin starts to look healthy again.
Like edenfield mentioned if you do not use a serious sunscreen you will damage your skin as it is very vulnerable to sun damage due to the retinols and AHA's.
You are young, you don't want to over do it now and then spend a fortune trying to fix all this later Wink

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natefan87
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:10 pm      Reply with quote
Alley wrote:
natefan87 I think you need to skip everything but moisturizers for longer than a week, maybe until your skin starts to look healthy again.
Like edenfield mentioned if you do not use a serious sunscreen you will damage your skin as it is very vulnerable to sun damage due to the retinols and AHA's.
You are young, you don't want to over do it now and then spend a fortune trying to fix all this later Wink


so my question is...should what should i continue to use? and what should i not use?
miranets
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:31 pm      Reply with quote
your situation really reminds me of myself Very Happy except i didn't take the path down retinoid-land but i did go overkill with acids and astringents and did not even know the right way to get my skin back on track.

from your description, i don't know how resilient your skin was before starting retinoids, but you are looking at time frame of several months of healing for optimal repair.

can i ask, why did you start retinoids? do you have an acne problem or did you just want smoother skin?

i would not use any vitamin C product, as that encourages exfoliation and stimulates the skin barrier too much.

basically, you are looking at a minimal routine of
-gentle non stripping (perhaps moisturising) cleanser for morning and evening
-no astrigent toners
-no actives like C or acids, no physical exfoliation
-perhaps a calming product, like Replenix Green Tea serum or Pevonia RS2, just depends on your sensitivity
-a barrier repair moisturiser with no actives (no retinols, C, acids), I just started using Skinmedica Ceratopic which is very light and moisturising, it is not scented which is a bonus
-a high SPF sunscreen to prevent sun damage to the impaired skin barrier, Japanese brands make good non greasy SPF50 products, try Sofina Perfect, Sofina Rise, Shiseido SPF55, although if your skin is dry you may want to look into cream type products

resist the urge to exfoliate!! that is my most important suggestion, you may experience periods of very very roughened skin that is screaming to be sloughed away, but once you do that there would be nothing left to protect the skin surface.

and just from experience, after i stopped a very harsh skincare regime, i did not take measure to repair my skin barrier for several years which ultimately resulted in broken caps, poor skin texture, unbalanced sebum production, dehydration and chronic irritation. and it will take ten times the length of time to undo all that damage.
ritas
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:38 pm      Reply with quote
I wud say just stop using everything for 2 months and stick to just simple routine of sunscreen, basic moisturizer that can be emu oil or other milder version. And then after that start using milder peels in 20 days gap not more than that.
Never do it weekly. give chance to your skin for healing.
I am not sure if others will agree with me on this or not but i can tell u with my exp. When i started using peels it worked wonder for me had really healthy clear skin but in long run they make look worse than u look b4 u using it. I did this mistake and made my skin super sensitive to sun and all other small samll environmental changes that really irritated my skin and gave more sacrs, thinned and terrible skin.
But the miracle first effect of aha is really unforgettable and I always get tempted to have that and end up using it again which again make me repent Crying or Very sad
From last 2 months i start using aha body peels every 15 days. My skin was getting improved but then now I start going out for my new job and realize I again did wrong thing...even if be in sun just for 10-15 min it gave red rashes and small small red bumps all over my body with itching. Now ive decided to stay away with all peels all my life...
Will start out rein a vit c after 1 month but that too on milder side.

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ritas
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:43 pm      Reply with quote
miranets wrote:
your situation really reminds me of myself Very Happy except i didn't take the path down retinoid-land but i did go overkill with acids and astringents and did not even know the right way to get my skin back on track.

from your description, i don't know how resilient your skin was before starting retinoids, but you are looking at time frame of several months of healing for optimal repair.

can i ask, why did you start retinoids? do you have an acne problem or did you just want smoother skin?

i would not use any vitamin C product, as that encourages exfoliation and stimulates the skin barrier too much.

basically, you are looking at a minimal routine of
-gentle non stripping (perhaps moisturising) cleanser for morning and evening
-no astrigent toners
-no actives like C or acids, no physical exfoliation
-perhaps a calming product, like Replenix Green Tea serum or Pevonia RS2, just depends on your sensitivity
-a barrier repair moisturiser with no actives (no retinols, C, acids), I just started using Skinmedica Ceratopic which is very light and moisturising, it is not scented which is a bonus
-a high SPF sunscreen to prevent sun damage to the impaired skin barrier, Japanese brands make good non greasy SPF50 products, try Sofina Perfect, Sofina Rise, Shiseido SPF55, although if your skin is dry you may want to look into cream type products

resist the urge to exfoliate!! that is my most important suggestion, you may experience periods of very very roughened skin that is screaming to be sloughed away, but once you do that there would be nothing left to protect the skin surface.

and just from experience, after i stopped a very harsh skincare regime, i did not take measure to repair my skin barrier for several years which ultimately resulted in broken caps, poor skin texture, unbalanced sebum production, dehydration and chronic irritation. and it will take ten times the length of time to undo all that damage.

I totally agree with you miranets.

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natefan87
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:23 pm      Reply with quote
uhhh...im worried. i started using retin A for acne.

does eds do returns? cuz i ordered the vitamin C serum before i made this thread.

i hope my skin will recover Sad

also, a question about the aquafor...can i apply it AFTER i put emu oil on? or do i put the aquafor on first, then the emu oil. (at night)

and what am i gonna do about my acne??
miranets
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:19 pm      Reply with quote
what sort of acne do you have, congestion or cystic?

i think your skin barrier should be your main concern, if you continue harsh acne treatments now the spots may clear up for the meantime but later on your skin will be very imbalanced and be more prone to acne related issues.

if your acne is mild, i'd just put up with it, it is the only way you can let your skin recover. you might find that as your skin barrier strengthens your acne improves (like in my case) perhaps occasional spot treatment for problematic areas may be ok, but that is entirely according to your condition.
ahihi
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:22 pm      Reply with quote
Hi Natefan -

Check EDS for links re: 302 (a skin care line that might be worth reading up on.. also, check this link for more info......

http:/www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.phptid=20546&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Good luck!
Matherton
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:22 pm      Reply with quote
Have you thought about trying the Suki products? I used them for a while for acne and they were gentle and my skin looked very good! I added mama lotion later due to some cystic acne on my forhead.
But my skin looked great with suki and it felt good and healthy. When my cystic acne is gone for good i will be going back on suki completely!
sfong
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:38 pm      Reply with quote
I think you should stop using all the chemicals and let you skin rest a week or two. Sun screen is very important. I love OBAGI healthy skin SPF3, SkinCeuticals sun screen is also great, especially for the price.
natefan87
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:31 pm      Reply with quote
thanks for the advice! im sitting here with my face slathered in emu oil lol. Luckily, emu oil has never made me break out.

tomorrow im buying some aquafor.
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Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:18 pm      Reply with quote
I think the best advice you can take is to take it easy. You sound like a person who thinks that more is more, as you continue your skin care journey you'll discover it is the opposite Smile
boski
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Fri Apr 11, 2008 7:11 am      Reply with quote
You are getting good advice. Let your skin rest and recover. Use mild cleanser, maybe even skip the morning cleansing and just use plain warm water. When your skin has recovered (it could take up to a month), then slowly reintroduce topicals. If you are using Retin-A for acne, you need to reduce the use to 2 or 3 times a week at night. Don't continually exfoliate or put AHAs on your face. That really thins your epidermal barrier and leads to irritation, hyperpigmentation, even rosacea if kept up for a long time. Less is more. Treat your skin like a plant. Too much water or fertilizer can kill it. It's tricky but you don't want to smother your skin with products. Read the signs. Continual redness, irritation and dryness are signs your skin is not happy. The microinflammation from all this exfoliation makes your skin appear plumper and have that "rosy glow" in the beginning, but it's not sustainable over the long run. And if you ever stop the acids, it really goes downhill fast. That's what happened to me. I was a weekly glycolic peel user, applied multitudes of products day and night. Eventually, my skin became red, blotchy, and broke out even more.

I agree with Ahihi, 302 is a wonderful line to consider for your acne and general skincare. I've used it for close to 3 years and have never been happier with the condition of my skin. It's a natural, simple, but powerful line that is not acid-based and boosts the metabolism of the skin. You may consider LED for controlling the acne too. Tons of threads about LED here.

You have the benefit of being young. So you can turn this around quickly. Good luck!
natefan87
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Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:34 pm      Reply with quote
thank u boski.

that was interesting what you said about the "rosy glow" of acid exfoliants. That was the reason why i started using them! I wanted rosy cheeks, naturally.

so if acids are not good, then what can i do to have my skin glow?

and also...is there anything wrong with something like Alpha Hydrox souffle? It's only 12% aha. Or is that a topical i would use just a few times a week?

thanks.
boski
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Fri Apr 11, 2008 2:34 pm      Reply with quote
I really can't advocate acids. I wouldn't use AHAs in any form or concentration now. I know a lot of people disagree and have different experiences, but this is based on my personal experience and preference.

As far as rosy glow, increase your circulation from within. Exercise on a regular basis, eat well, take supplements to improve your circulatory system and skin. You can exfoliate with the Clarisonic skin brush, or use a microfiber cloth to "gently" exfoliate. I wouldn't do this now though, since your skin is stressed. Also, when your skin is more normalized, you can try oxygen or clay masks (Aztec is a clay one I use). As the mask dries, it gets really tight, causing a pulsating feeling, which increases the circulation to the skin.

You are so young, you really shouldn't need to exfoliate much at all. Rather than focusing on exfoliation, I'd be focusing on maintaining skin health and avoiding sun damage.

I read on the 302 website that even draping a very hot washcloth on your face for a few minutes increases your circulation (probably not good if you have rosacea though). I've been doing that in the morning, and it does makes my face feel refreshed and rosy for a little while.

Anybody else have suggestions for Nate?
ahihi
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Fri Apr 11, 2008 5:09 pm      Reply with quote
Hmm.. a couple more ideas..
one, have you been to the doctor? S/he might be able to give you an ointment that might take care of things. Natefan, I am 30 years older than you (hard to get that out!).. but last month my face developed a bit of seborrea - the nurse practitioner gave me something named "ciclopirox cream 0.77%". After about 3 weeks, it is finally going away. Weird for me to break out though - I can count on one hand the amount of pimples that I have had in my life.

Also - what sort of sunscreen do you use? I am starting to see SS can contribute to all sorts of problems, and may not protect you from the sun the way it claims.

And.. Boski has great posts! She gives really good advice (excercise is definately helpful w/the circulation).. I may look into that Aztec clay mask as well!
natefan87
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Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:21 am      Reply with quote
as far as sunscreen goes...i just bought Eucerin extra protective spf 30 for the face.

i also bought aquaphor. i had no idea it was like vaseline, i thouhgt it was a cream.
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Sat Apr 12, 2008 8:30 am      Reply with quote
boski wrote:

As far as rosy glow, increase your circulation from within. Exercise on a regular basis, eat well, take supplements to improve your circulatory system and skin. You can exfoliate with the Clarisonic skin brush, or use a microfiber cloth to "gently" exfoliate. I wouldn't do this now though, since your skin is stressed. Also, when your skin is more normalized, you can try oxygen or clay masks (Aztec is a clay one I use). As the mask dries, it gets really tight, causing a pulsating feeling, which increases the circulation to the skin.


boski, thank you so much for your explanations of the "rosy glow" from acids!
I`m using Jan Marini bioglycolic bioclear cream now, and I`m totally amazed and fascinated by the colour of my skin it gives me! I have never ever had such a beuatiful rosy glow!!! Shock

but regarding long-term damage I may be doing, I`m going to re-consider it...

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Sat Apr 12, 2008 8:52 am      Reply with quote
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