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Help me with my oil recipes - cleansing & treatment
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare
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alienoreo
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Sat Jan 25, 2014 3:14 pm      Reply with quote
So, I've had good results with oil cleansing and with treatment oils in the last few weeks, but I'd like to make my own. Know what's in it, target my needs, etc. I've come up with two recipes and I have some but not all of the ingredients. GOW has great sample oil packs, which will make it possible to afford a few small batches with a lot of good ingredients.

Would love feedback from the DIY pros on how this looks, what might become problematic, etc. I'm sensitive to strongly-smelling oils so I've already eliminated the ones I know won't work on that account (black seed, neem, etc.) I have normal combo-to-oily skin. Not prone to breakouts. I just want to deal with oils and oil-soluble extracts--no water or alcohol phase in either formula.

Cleansing Oil
Must: rinse cleanly; have a mild or neutral smell; work well for facial/lymph massage; have potent anti-inflammatory properties to combat mild rosacea and enlarged/broken capillaries.

castor - 10.00%
cucumber - 10.00%
grapeseed - 10.00%
hemp - 10.00%
jojoba - 10.00%
perilla - 10.00%
rice bran - 10.00%
avocado - 5.00%
hazelnut - 5.00%
maracuja/passionfruit - 5.00%
oat oil - 5.00%
Polysorbate 80 - 4.00%
Cromollient SCE - 3.00%
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil - 3.00%


Treatment Oil
Must: have a mild/neutral/pleasant smell; include potent antioxidants and anti-irritants; have a light texture; absorb quickly quickly but leave a pleasant glow; work well under sunscreen/makeup; brighten skin and/or treat redness/rosacea; work equally well at night over other serums/moisturizers.

tetrahedradecyl ascorbate - 10.00%
cucumber oil - 5.00%
grapeseed - 5.00%
rice bran - 5.00%
maracuja - 5.00%
oat oil - 5.00%
horse chestnut OS - 5.00%
jojoba (infused with vanilla fruit extract)- 5.00%
acai oil - 5.00%
plum kernel oil - 5.00%
red raspberry oil -5.00%
rose hip oil - 5.00%
squalane (olive) - 5.00%
watermelon oil - 5.00%
perilla seed oil - 3.00%
argan - 3.00%
CoQ10 powder - 2.00%
evening primrose - 2.00%
meadowfoam - 2.00%
tamanu - 2.00% (this has a scent but I like it)
vitamin E - 2.00%
hemp - 1.00%
avocado - 1.00%
hazelnut - 1.00%
black raspberry - 1.00%
blackberry - 1.00%
blueberry - 1.00%
marula - 1.00%
pomegranate - 1.00%
bisabolol - 0.50%
sea buckthorn oil - 0.50%
rosemary extract (antioxidant) -0.50%

Thank you!!

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44, fair, hazel eyes, light brown hair; primary concerns: hormonal melasma, overall tone and texture, mild rosacea
ShastaGirl
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Sat Jan 25, 2014 6:12 pm      Reply with quote
On the cleansing oil, I would increase the amount of castor. I use at least 30% for the cleansing properties. I would eliminate some of the more expensive oils from the cleansing version as they get rinsed off anyway, save them for the treatment oil.

Your treatment oil looks nice, but "Wow" you are going to have to stock up on a lot of different oils. Personally, I love sea buckthorn and would increase the percentage, but it can have a distinctive smell.

Let us know how it works out.
alienoreo
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Sun Jan 26, 2014 11:20 am      Reply with quote
ShastaGirl wrote:
On the cleansing oil, I would increase the amount of castor. I use at least 30% for the cleansing properties. I would eliminate some of the more expensive oils from the cleansing version as they get rinsed off anyway, save them for the treatment oil.

Your treatment oil looks nice, but "Wow" you are going to have to stock up on a lot of different oils. Personally, I love sea buckthorn and would increase the percentage, but it can have a distinctive smell.

Let us know how it works out.


Thank you, ShastaGirl. I read that including more than 10% of castor can be drying if you're also using other astringent oils like grapeseed and hazelnut, but I will experiment with more castor. I figured if the oil is going to be on my face for a five-minute massage, it should have significant anti-inflammatory and nourishing properties, hence some of the other oils that I've seen recommended for OCM.

On the treatment blend, I won't need more than .25 oz of any of them and I already have about 3/4 of them from other experiments. I'm trying the "broad array" approach, and many of them are recommended for use levels between 1-5%. I really think I could probably do 20% red raspberry, about 20% actives, and 10% each of jojoba, rosehip, cucumber, maracuja, argan, and acai for a good blend, which might be where I start. I was also kinda hoping someone with more experience could tell me "hey, you don't need x, y, and z because q does the same thing."

I have sea buckthorn and wish I could use it but the smell is really a deal-breaker for me. It's bearable in blends with jasmine and neroli, but I am trying to avoid essential oils and pure fragrance products in this one.

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44, fair, hazel eyes, light brown hair; primary concerns: hormonal melasma, overall tone and texture, mild rosacea
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