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Seriously Considering DIY
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare
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VeronicaM
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Sun Feb 09, 2014 4:50 pm      Reply with quote
I am tired of endlessly searching for the right products. I have spent hundreds on skin (includes face & body) care products. While I've found a few holy grail products, most of the money was spent in vain.

Because I have very specific skin care needs, I'm considering DIY.

I've written down my individual skin care concerns...and plan to gather of ingredients that specifically address those issues. Right now, I'm making a toner, facial moisturizer, and body lotion.

And I plan to formulate the products completely from scratch...so no base cream

There is so much for me to learn before I could even begin. I found a few books on cosmetic formulating (they were written for cosmetic chemists) and might use those. I will also browse through several EDS threads. I hope that this all works out. Wish me luck!


Btw, share your early experiences with DIY. What made you start doing it? How difficult was it early on? How long did it take you to get the hang of it? What books/resources (other than EDS) did you use as learning tools?...and any other relevant/interesting information
wannabeageless
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Sun Feb 16, 2014 9:01 am      Reply with quote
I'm just getting started in DIY and have ordered a ton of actives and oils, many of which are still in route.

My first foray was a simple Vit C serum that I ran across on the dermarolling site by owndoc, and that set me in motion!

Since then, I've purchased a cream kit and a serum kit that just required you to add in the actives and stir them up. Baby steps for me...

Next I purchased a kit that gave me step by step directions on how to perform an emulsion. Similar to you, I want to make my own products from scratch so I know exactly what is included and I can pinpoint the things that my skin seems to like and the things that it rejects..

I think I may have gone a little overboard on my buying spree for oils and actives but I still have a list of things I want/need..

When I get my next couple of shipments I should have enough oils and a few emulsifiers to begin really digging into the nitty gritty of how to create my own..

So much to learn! I've mainly searched the internet, read pubmed articles on the efficacy of actives, read anecdotal experiences of others, and try to glean fact from fiction on some supplier websites. I'm finding that i run into inconsistencies regarding the effectiveness and safety of different products and i'm deficit in a science background so I really have to lean on other folks whose opinions/knowledge seems credible.

I wish I could find a great diy book that describes it all.... emulsifiers, actives, HLBs, preservatives and packages it all together in one easy to understand layman's terms. Someone really ought to write that book! I'll buy it and pay premium!!
VeronicaM
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Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:23 am      Reply with quote
wannabeageless wrote:

I wish I could find a great diy book that describes it all.... emulsifiers, actives, HLBs, preservatives and packages it all together in one easy to understand layman's terms. Someone really ought to write that book! I'll buy it and pay premium!!



There are few such books, though not all are written for a general audience:

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmetic-Formulation-Products-Science-Technology/dp/0849339685/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392574958&sr=8-1&keywords=cosmetic+formulation
ShastaGirl
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Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:42 am      Reply with quote
I started with vit c serum. I tried more complex items as well, including sunscreen. Be aware that you may need to stock up on lots of stuff to do this right. You will need a scale as well.

After a lot of experimentation, I've decided to stick with simpler items, such as HA serums and oil mixes. While I like cooking, I found I didn't have the patience to deal with the minute quantities required of some ingredients and the constant trial and error. My trial and error did give me a better sense of what works for my skin. I still make certain things, but I now look for small companies that create good quality organic products.

Most of my research was done reading various forums and guides from DIY companies such as Skinactives, Lotioncrafters, Making Cosmetics and Skin Essential Actives.
havana8
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Sun Feb 16, 2014 12:06 pm      Reply with quote
Not sure if you've searched for DIY formulating blogs but you might find this one helpful: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.ca

There are also sites like this one http://www.aromantic.co.uk that might be helpful.
wannabeageless
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Sun Feb 16, 2014 12:25 pm      Reply with quote
it's not cheap either but I did say I'd pay a premium price Laughing

I read through the first section and was happy to see that it wasn't written above my head ( at least the parts I saw)

I've spent a fortune on DIY ingredients and supplies that I'll have to put this one on wish list for later!! Thank you for posting it!

VeronicaM wrote:



There are few such books, though not all are written for a general audience:

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmetic-Formulation-Products-Science-Technology/dp/0849339685/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392574958&sr=8-1&keywords=cosmetic+formulation
VeronicaM
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Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:13 pm      Reply with quote
wannabeageless wrote:
it's not cheap either but I did say I'd pay a premium price Laughing

I read through the first section and was happy to see that it wasn't written above my head ( at least the parts I saw)

I've spent a fortune on DIY ingredients and supplies that I'll have to put this one on wish list for later!! Thank you for posting it!



You can also try getting it from a library. Use WorldCat.org to find libraries near you that carry it.
Autumn1995
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Sat Jun 14, 2014 2:45 pm      Reply with quote
I would start with one simple recipe.

I now make my own cleansing oil.
Basic recipe for cleansing oil:

90% oil (or oils - your choice) and emulsifier
I purchase mine from Garden of Wisdom.
http://www.gardenofwisdom.com/catalog/item/4032845/7039318.htm

Other items that are easy to mix up - masks and toners.

I use to mix the aspirin mask.
I have also tried aspirin toner. Recently working with green tea as a toner.

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RussianSunshine
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Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:31 am      Reply with quote
If you love cooking, you will love Diy-ing. Otherwise, do not waste your time.

IMO, DIY-ing is only worth it if you either love it or want to save money. Will you have significantly better results from using DIY products as opposed to ready-made products? From my own experience, no. And I have tried a lot DIY formulations.
Autumn1995
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Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:20 am      Reply with quote
RussianSunshine wrote:
If you love cooking, you will love Diy-ing. Otherwise, do not waste your time.

IMO, DIY-ing is only worth it if you either love it or want to save money. Will you have significantly better results from using DIY products as opposed to ready-made products? From my own experience, no. And I have tried a lot DIY formulations.


DIY is helpful for those that are highly sensitive and want simple formulas.

I do not love cooking, but DIY gives me a lot of satisfaction. I like to feel creative and yes, saving money is always nice.

My warning is that it is easy to go overboard. Select one item first and keep the ingredients as simple as possible.

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RussianSunshine
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Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:21 am      Reply with quote
VeronicaM wrote:

What books/resources (other than EDS) did you use as learning tools?...and any other relevant/interesting information


SEA is a good source of info, affordable ingredients, scales, etc. They also have recipes.

http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/
fawnie
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Tue Jun 17, 2014 6:04 am      Reply with quote
DIY is imperative if you are sensitive to silicones, carbomers, parabens, aloe vera, multiple preservatives, or just want to avoid all that nasty stuff.

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE is one of Paula's and Perricone's favorite ingredients.Unfortunately it causes cystic acne in many ppl.

If you DIY you have control over what goes into the beaker, not the corporate fatcats who want to extend the shelf life of massive vats of goo mixed up in factories. Laughing

If you think you're going to save money, well, dream on! It gets expensive for the right ingredients! But its fun. And I dont even like to cook! Its more like science than home ec.

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RussianSunshine
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Tue Jun 17, 2014 3:38 pm      Reply with quote
fawnie wrote:
And I dont even like to cook! Its more like science than home ec.


Admit it, fawnie, DIY involves A LOT of cooking ( measuring, mixing, cleaning, sterilizing, etc.) One can go nuts! Very Happy

VeronicaM, if you want to try DIY products w/o nasties (gentle, with good ingredients, etc.), try fawnie's stuff! It is fabulous in terms of texture, ingredients and scent.
fawnie
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Wed Jun 18, 2014 10:08 am      Reply with quote
Well thank you! Very Happy

I really dont like to cook because I hate the smell of raw meat. So far I dont use that in skin care, but I never say never!

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Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:36 am      Reply with quote
I have increasingly sensitive and dry skin that breaks out to most of the "hypoallergic" or "non-comedogenic" products that I got. That was a lot of money and time wasted, with a lot of disappointments.

For a long time I was using only a simple moisterizer from La Roche Posay, and eventually I started experimenting with adding essential oils for more "oomph". That was probably the beginning of my DIY adventure.

I have since tried making Vitamin C serums and shea butter based hand and body creams (inspired by the brand L'Occitane which was getting too expensive).

I am an adventurous cook who is always looking to experiment and cut corners on effort, and that style, when used in skincare DIY-ing, has resulted in lots of surprises. But once you start, it is hard to go back! I now have way too many different ingredients lying around, and am looking to sticking with the most simple recipes, possibly relying more on pre-made bases (such as from Skin Actives).
fawnie
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Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:32 pm      Reply with quote
I try to avoid things like PEGs, carbomers, multiple preservatives, glycols, parabens, silicones and other irritants in my DIY. Plus, I like to know exactly what % each ingredient is at.

This is the list of ingredients for SkinActives' Canvas Base Cream:

"Distilled Water (Aqua), Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) Seed Oil, Sorbitol, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Sesame (Sesamum indicum) Seed Oil, Sweet Almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) Oil, Avocado (Persea gratissima) Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben."
http://www.skinactives.com/Canvas-Base-Cream.html

YMMV of course, but its so easy to make a simple base cream avoiding all that, and a LOT cheaper too. This is a nice emulsifier that is melted into the oil phase and then combined with the water phase (both at same temp), then you can add your dissolved actives and a preservative. Easy as pie! (not affiliated)
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/grannyd-sea-lsilk-emulsifier-30-grams/

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Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:34 am      Reply with quote
fawnie wrote:
I try to avoid things like PEGs, carbomers, multiple preservatives, glycols, parabens, silicones and other irritants in my DIY. Plus, I like to know exactly what % each ingredient is at.


Thanks for a reminder of the ingredients. That is so true. The simpler the better, of course Smile I actually finally bothered to look up the ingredients for the La Roche Posay Hydraphase moisterizer too, and the ingredient list is not that great either:

Aqua / Water • Glycerin • Butyrospermum Parkii Butter / Shea Butter • Dimethicone • Polyethylene • Liquidum / Mineral Oil • Cetyl Alcohol • Urea • Glyceryl Linoleate • Peg-100 Stearate • Glyceryl Stearate • Pentylene Glycol • Stearic Acid • Carbomer • Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer • Glyceryl Linolenate • Glyceryl Oleate • Triethanolamine • Disodium Edta • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid • Xanthan Gum • Polysorbate 60 • Tocopheryl Acetate • Caprylyl Glycol • Parfum / Fragrance.


fawnie wrote:

YMMV of course, but its so easy to make a simple base cream avoiding all that, and a LOT cheaper too. This is a nice emulsifier that is melted into the oil phase and then combined with the water phase (both at same temp), then you can add your dissolved actives and a preservative. Easy as pie! (not affiliated)
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/grannyd-sea-lsilk-emulsifier-30-grams/

It might sound easy to you, but I still feel a bit intimidated to do all this from scratch, right now. For example, I am clueless about what the oil phase and water phase are (and even if I read up on it, it probably will escape my mind again soon) Very Happy I also feel that having to sanitize, weigh and measure and heat up small, precise quantities, and using dedicated equipment that is more than just a container and a stirring stick, is too much to handle right now. Believe me, I really want to get there eventually! Laughing
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Mon Jun 23, 2014 4:15 pm      Reply with quote
Believe me, we all have started with the same questions you are asking! Unless someone has a science background, its all new. Its like cooking: start with the basics and build your skills.

There are many Lotions 101 tutorials online and DIY forums available to get you started.

http://makingskincare.com/how-to-make-a-lotioncream-part-1-equipment-and-ingredients/

http://skincare.boards.net/

But if you're doing it to save money - at first its a big outlay for some materials. My prime motivator is to avoid the nasty things commercial brands put in their products. Good luck!

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Autumn1995
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Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:41 pm      Reply with quote
The only DIY product I have successfully copied is Silk Naturals cleansing oil. I tried a sample and loved it. I was buying full sizes until someone on MUA posted that it is easy to copy.

http://host.silknaturals.com/creb/apricot-cleansing-p-823.html

I buy emulsifier from GOW. Oil is easy find in the health food store and grocery store.

Basic recipe for cleansing oil - 90% oil(s)- your choice

Patch test to ensure your skin likes the oil.
5 - 10% emulsifier.

Most commercial cleansing oils have a long list of ingredients.

Being a true DIY appeals to me. However, I am lazy and I do have products that work (and cannot be duplicated.) I do also see how online shopping for ingredients can be dangerous.

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Tue Jun 24, 2014 7:20 pm      Reply with quote
Thank you fawnie, for the pointers and the encouragement! The lotion-making page sounds pretty comprehensive.

DIY skincare *is* very much like cooking (especially from scratch).. In fact, one of the reasons why I feel I cannot partake it now, is that I am already overwhelmed by the amount of time and space used for all the from scratch cooking I am doing... With exactly the same motive behind it - I cannot stand the massive list of ugly ingredients in a lot of the commercial foods Wink My small kitchen is already bursting with food ingredients and basic equipment, and it is hard to imagine finding room (and time) for more, for now.

Meanwhile I am happy that a little tweak here and there makes a big difference - such as adding almond oil to my long-time cleanser that was getting too drying, and adding tea tree and neem oil to my shampoo for scalp problems.

It is wonderful we have so many resources if one wants to get away from commercialized skincare!


fawnie wrote:
Believe me, we all have started with the same questions you are asking! Unless someone has a science background, its all new. Its like cooking: start with the basics and build your skills.

There are many Lotions 101 tutorials online and DIY forums available to get you started.

http://makingskincare.com/how-to-make-a-lotioncream-part-1-equipment-and-ingredients/

http://skincare.boards.net/

But if you're doing it to save money - at first its a big outlay for some materials. My prime motivator is to avoid the nasty things commercial brands put in their products. Good luck!
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Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:50 am      Reply with quote
It is difficult when you are a huge purist like me and paranoid of using synthetics in your DIY projects Laughing I have relaxed quite abit now and recognized the fact that some synthetics are necessary and not all of them are harmful. Many organic skincare lines I have tried feels too heavy and caused me to break out. I think it's because in avoiding emulsifiers and preservatives, most organic skincare have a high content of oils and waxes.

I started off with really simple recipes I found online, borrowed many books at the library and I often ask the suppliers for help in tweaking my recipes. When in doubt always ask! Honestly speaking, I see a huge improvement in my skin after I started DIY. I can customize my products according to my skin needs and make them fresh with a combination of plant extracts as preservatives. They work even better than the huge brands I used to purchase... like SK II, clarins, chanel etc. I now DIY 90% of all my skincare products, excluding makeup and I would never look back.

Good luck in your DIY and have fun! Very Happy
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