| Author |
Message |
|
|
 |
Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:06 pm  |
Ingredients: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane,Isononym Isononanoate, Octocrylene, Alcohol Denat, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Titanium Dioxide, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Bis-Ethylhexylophenol, Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, PEG-30 Dupolhydroxystearate, Silica, Nylon-12, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Alumina, Butylparaben, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Ethylparaben, Glycine Soya, Isobutylparaben, Lauryl Methicone, Methylparaben, Pentasodium Ethylenediamine Tetramenthylene Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparabenm Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Tocopherol, Triethanolamine.
OK, let's take a look at these ingredients and see if we can figure out what the formulator was trying to do.
The first ingredient is water, so it is highest loaded, and that's typical for a sunscreen product.
Next you will see cyclopentasiloxane, followed three ingredients later by Alcohol Denatured. The cyclopentasiloxane and the Alcohol are both "volatile" ingredients. The cyclopentasiloxane helps with easy spreading since it is a silicone, and that is important for a sunscreen. Complete spreading of the sunscreen actives makes for a very good sunscreen. But, since they are both volatile, they evaporate out of the product and off of your skin very quickly. Now, both will have a "solvent" effect. So, as you rub it on, they will tend to mix with some of your natural skin oils and when they evaporate some of those oils will be disrupted....thus, drying your skin.
So, your first assumption about the Alcohol is probably correct, especially since these two volatile components are high in the list (and fairly highly loaded in the formula).
Isononyl Isononanoate is an ester that is in there for smooth spreading and a good skin feel. This is more than likely the ingredient that is giving you the "light" yet "oily" feel. It is a very oily feeling emollient that penetrates rather slowly (which is better to spread the sunscreen actives).
The sunscreen actives are Octocrylene (chemical), Titanium Dioxide (physical), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (chemical), Bemotrizinol , (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) is an oil soluble organic compound which is added to sunscreens to absorb UV rays. It is marketed as Tinosorb S so it is probably mixed with the TiO2 above (chemical...not approved for use in the U.S.), Drometrizole Trisiloxane is Mexoryl XL (chemical), Ethylhexyl Triazone is a UVB absorbing sunscreen (chemical).
So, this product is LOADED with sunscreen actives. I can see why it gets an SPF 50 rating!
However, it is also loaded with silicones, and no really good fatty acids (emollient oils) or wax esters. So, even though it does a good job of sunscreen protection, and the formulator did a good job of assuring excellent spread and coverage with the volatile ingredients, high spreading silicones and one ester.... it is not a very skin friendly formula. It lacks the wax esters, fatty acids, etc. that would make it skin friendly and compatible with the skin.
Therefore, this product does have skin drying ingredients. It has no real skin friendly fatty acids or wax esters. Bottom line... it's just what you say... this product feels light and oily but IT IS drying your skin out!
Hope this helps,
John |
_________________
President and Chief Formulator, Never Over The Hill Cosmetics, Patend holder, Award winning cosmetic chemist, neveroverthehill.com, Age 51 and staying young forever! |
|
|
|
|
Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:56 am |
Oops, yes the HTML version doesn't show the ingredients. With the original site, you go to 'Face and Body' instead of 'Face' under Sun Protection.
London is very near France so you should be getting the whole range of LRP? *I think?*  I'm in asia and I do see it being retailed. And also as far as I know formulations tend to differ only with the US line.
Sorry I don't know more about the Lait. Like I said I don't like mexoryls. They made me look very shiny. I prefer the tinsorbs in Avene and Bioderma. The Avene Emulsion SPF 50+ as recommended by m1rox is nice.  |
|
|
|
|
|
Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:44 pm |
Maybe this article from futurederm.com will help you understand alcohols:
The Most Misunderstood Skincare Ingredient: Alcohol
All too often, consumers will refuse to buy a product because it contains high concentrations of some form of alcohol. Yet, according to Dr. Audrey Kunin, board-certified dermatologist and founder of DERMAdoctor.com, not all alcohols are dry and irritating. In fact, according to Kunin, there are seven dense alcohols — cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol 40, C12-15 alcohols, stearyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol — that are not drying or irriating. Instead, these agents are used in products as emulsifiers, thickening agents and stabilizers, allowing skin care products to have silky-smooth formulations. In addition, lanolin alcohol and stearyl alcohols also act as moisturizing factors, so not only are they not drying, they are moisturizing.
Is lanolin an allergen?
Because lanolin is derived naturally from the sebaceous glands of sheep, lanolin has often been thought of as an allergen or sensitizing agent. However, according to Begoun, a 2001 study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that the mean annual rate of sensitivity to the allergen amongst 24,449 patients was only 1.7%, with a 50% concentration of lanolin. Lower concentrations of lanolin would most likely result in even lower rates of sensitivity. As such, lanolin alcohol, an emollient derived from lanolin, should not act as an allergen or sensitizing agent in most individuals as well. If you have a known allergy to sheep’s wool or any reservations, you should consult your dermatologist.
Which alcohols are safe in skin care products?
An easy way to remember these alcohols when shopping: the 5 “C” alcohols, and “steer left,” where “steer” stands for stearyl alcohol and the “l” in “left” for lanolin alcohol. An additional note: It may be noted that cetyl, cetearyl, cetostearyl and cetyl alcohol 40 are all derived from coconut oil, and so they should not be used by anyone with coconut allergies.
So how did alcohol achieve its poor reputation?
According to Paula Begoun, author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, low molecular weight alcohols are often drying and irritating in skincare formulations. In addition, according a CNN article on skin care, the Mayo Clinic states that moisturizing products containing low molecular weight alcohols are not as effective because they evaporate quickly from the skin. The low molecular weight alcohols most commonly found in skincare products are (the first three are the same, under different names): ethanol, ethyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, and SD alcohol. (Denatured or “SD” means that the alcohols are processed so that they cannot be ingested.) The five different agents are used as a solvent, antiseptic, or degreasing agent in skin care formulations. When found high on the ingredients list, they can be drying and irritating. However, according to Kunin, if the ingredient is contained lower in the ingredients list, they may simply be acting as a degreasing agent, making for a better texture of the skin care formulation.
What does alcohol consumption do to the skin?
Excessive alcohol consumption damages skin in two primary ways. One, alcohol will dilate the blood vessels, leading to telangiectasias or chronic dilation of the capillaries, and a flush of the face. Under increased pressure, the stretched vessels may break, appearing as broken capillaries on the face. It may also be noted that it is known that alcohol consumption aggravates symptoms of patients with rosacea.
Two, alcohol interferes with the body’s processing of vitamin A (including retinoids). According to Stryker et. al, the consumption of alcohol leads to a reduced absorption of vitamin A from the diet. Because vitamin A is a known antioxidant with anti-aging properties, decreasing its absorption may lead to advanced aging. In addition, retinoids may not be as effective following excessive alcohol consumption, as Leo and Lieber note there is competition between ethanol and retinoic acid precursors, leading to accelerated breakdown of retinol through the cross-induction of degradative enzymes. With retinoids available for less time in the system, it is highly probable less efficacy is achieved, and more probable that the retinoids produce toxic by-products. The latter was verified by Leo and Lieber, as ethanol promotes the toxicity of both vitamin A and ß-carotene in the body. The researchers thereby caution that discretionary (reduced) amounts of vitamin A and ß-carotene are used by drinking populations to decrease the risk of toxicity in the body. No studies to date have been done investigating the efficacy and toxicity of topical retinoids in combination with alcohol consumption, so ask your dermatologist if you are concerned.
The Bottom Line?
Alcohols that are safe to use are the 5 C’s and “steer left” (stearyl and lanolin alcohols). Other lower-molecular weight alcohols may not be drying or irritating if they are found low on the ingredients list. Alcohol consumption leads to increased flushing of the skin, decreased absorption and efficacy of vitamin A, and increased toxicity of vitamin A and ß-carotene, so be aware of excessive alcohol consumption when using products that contain vitamin A. The bottom line: for improved skin appearance, don’t be as scared of alcohol in your skin care regime (using the guidelines above), but be fearful of excessive alcohol in your glass.
http://www.futurederm.com/2007/10/15/the-most-misunderstood-skincare-ingredient-alcohol/ |
_________________
Born 1953; Blonde-Blue; Normal skin |
|
|
|
|
Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:18 pm |
Lacy53
Wow thanks for that. Didn't know alcohol interferes with the body’s processing of vitamin A (including retinoids). 
LondonJamie
I wouldn't be too concerned with cetearyl alcohol. This is certainly not the conventional drying alcohol. Kinda like Hyalauronic Acid is not an acid.
Crossing my fingers for you with the Lait on your skin |
|
|
|
|
| Fri Oct 10, 2025 5:22 pm |
If this is your first visit to the EDS Forums please take the time to register. Registration is required for you to post on the forums. Registration will also give you the ability to track messages of interest, send private messages to other users, participate in Gift Certificates draws and enjoy automatic discounts for shopping at our online store. Registration is free and takes just a few seconds to complete.
Click Here to join our community.
If you are already a registered member on the forums, please login to gain full access to the site. |
|
 |
|
|
