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Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:30 pm |
nyonyakay, now you are getting quite technical, and I like this topic!
It is absolutely true that most of the skin lotions, creams, and "moisturizers" a designed to replace skin lipids that may have been washed off or lost during your daily routine. The list of materials that comprise the skin lipid barrier is very extensive and quite accurate. Many of the emollient oils that we put in creams and lotions are made to replace lost skin lipids. Let me give you an example:
The fatty acid profile of the skin lipid barrier is approximately:
Myristic Acid (C14:0): 2.1 - 4%
Palmitic Acid (C16:0): 20 - 30%
Palmitoleic Acid (C16:1): 3.8 - 8%
Stearic Acid (C18:0): 11.2 - 13%
Oleic Acid (C18:1): 17 - 30.8%
Linoleic Acid (C18:2): 4 - 15.1%
Linolenic Acid (C18:3): 0.3 - 2.1%
(where the "C" stands for carbon and the numbers stand for the number of carbons in the chain length followed by the number of double bonds in the chain)
Now for example, Emu Oil and Macadamia Oil have VERY similar fatty acid profiles. These materials would mix very well with your own skin lipids, and replace any lost skin lipids if you used products with these oils in them. Macadamia Oil fatty acid profile:
Myristic: 0.9%
Palmitic: 8.4%
Palmitoleic: 19.5%
Stearic: 3.3%
Oleic: 58.1%
Linoleic: 2.7%
Linolenic: 0.2%
(Note: because of this fatty acid profile, you will notice that Macadamia Oil seems to penetrate the skin rather quickly. No surprise here once you know the chemistry).
There are also other cosmetic ingredients that are very similar to the other components of skin lipids. These too can be formulated into creams and lotions to help "refat" the skin such as squalane, ceramides and a variety of tryglicerides.
I would have to believe that most of the best moisturizers, lotions and creams on the market have at least one if not more of these ingredients to try to bring your skin lipid barrier back to normal levels after washing, or especially after alcohol has been applied to the skin, such as an astringent or a hand sanitizer which can strip the skin lipid barrier quickly and very extensively. Ever notice how your hands feel dry and look "white" after applying hand sanitizer? Our company is currently making, and testing an 'emollient hand sanitizer' that contains jojoba emollients to refat the skin WHILE it is killing the bacteria.
John |
_________________ President and Chief Formulator for "Never Over The Hill Cosmetics" |
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