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KASSY_As LAA Recipe with Wheat Germ Oil. How To?
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare
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stillerfan21
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Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:09 am      Reply with quote
Hello,

I have read through all 69 pages of the "For Vitamin C Serum DIYers" thread and am ready to make my first batch. I have a couple questions.

I think I am going to use KASSY_A's recipe. The one with the wheat germ oil at the following link, as it seemed the simplest and also seemed like a lot of people found it to be a good one.

However, this recipe is one of the few ones that do not have instructions, and also it only lists percentages. I could not find instructions for this recipe anywhere. Even the youtube video that supposedly showed how to make it, has been removed.
Sorry for being an amateur, but can somebody provide a couple step by step instructions like how KASSY did for her other recipes (any heating involved, which ingredients into which shot glass, and in what order)? and exact measurements (teaspoons, cc's etc) instead of percentages, as I dont know how to convert.

A couple other random questions...
Should I get Optiphen or Optiphen Plus at LotionCrafters? The regular vs plus has different effective PH ranges

I dont see wheat germ oil or grapeseed oil on the LotionCrafter site. Where is a good place to get that?

Are the new recipes from her 2013 posts with propylene glycol and all the heating of everything, more effective than this one?
stillerfan21
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Wed Feb 18, 2015 7:58 am      Reply with quote
Here goes the original post with the serum. I couldn't link to it before

Quote:

Video tutorial of recipe which considers the science here
Yes Erica1981, you should definitely have a look at this video.. And yes, I certainly considered the "science", when I posted the original recipe here at EDS in Nov 2010, and a very similar version in 2009;

15% VITAMIN C SERUM WITH WGO + FA

- 15% LAA
- 1% Wheat Germ Oil (high vit E content!)
- .5% Ferulic Acid
- .5% Polysorbate 80
- .5% Preservative (Optiphen works nicely in acidic formulas!)
- .5% Vodka (you need to use this to dissolve the FA.)
- 82% Distilled Water


Don't miss the comment from "fawnie";

"I think it should be noted at the beginning of this tutorial that this is in fact Kassy_A's recipe from EDS. SHE worked out the details and made it available for the entire world to use. Her only mistake was not patenting it so that others wouldnt present it as their own idea."
myfawnieskin 2 months ago


And finally, It is the easiest and most beneficial C serum I've shared here, when formulated as written the pH works out to 2.7 for me, and it can easily be adjusted to suit individual needs. Anyway, this is the one I recommend and have used the last couple of years.

Please use 'fine l-ascorbic acid ultrafine powder' (not a vit C supplement). I highly recommend this one, as it never fails to fully dissolve very quickly, is always fresh + potent, and because it's a U.S. vendor, (I live in Florida), I get it very quickly.


**FYI; try to always use a DIY source close to your home, so your actives will actually be "active" when you get them.. If in doubt, always ask!**
Pandax12
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Thu Feb 19, 2015 9:13 am      Reply with quote
To make things simple, I would just go with this one. Great directions and a tried and true original here.

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=417200#417200

I've used this kit a few times with great success.

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/c-e-with-ferulic-acid-kit.html
stillerfan21
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Thu Feb 19, 2015 9:35 am      Reply with quote
Thanks Pandax12

I may resort to that one if I can't get any help for the above one I mentioned. However I already bought all of the ingredients, wheat germ and polysorbate included, for that one. Also, I was pretty set on that one due to the multiple times Kassy said it was easier to make, and better in general.


Regarding the wheat germpolysorbate serum:
Quote:
If you liked that one, you'll love this better. I've been using it since I posted it in 2010.


Regarding her serums from 2010/2011. Said the best are from these later posts:
Quote:
I don't think you really need to read all 60 pages... Much of what's best, is probably in the last 15 or so pages, because while we all learn as we go, the latest *stuff* is probably best.


Regarding someone asking why SKB is being used in her serums:
Quote:
The recipe you speak of was one of my first attempts, and long before I started to incorporate an emulsifier.. I now put 'polysorbate 80' in all of my recipes, and it's been perfect.
SKB is NOT a true emulsifier, but it has acted to *emulsify* a tiny bit of oil into those particular C serum recipes.
Pandax12
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Thu Feb 19, 2015 9:51 am      Reply with quote
Simple solution. With the linked directions in the 2nd shot glass, add wheat germ instead of Vit.E and poly 80 instead of SKB.

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=417200#417200

I would personally use real Vitamin E
stillerfan21
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Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:33 am      Reply with quote
Cool thanks. I think I may give that a shot.

When, and how much of, and how should I add the Optiphen?

Also, wouldnt I need to adjust the percentages/measurements around a little if the ingredients aren't really a 1 to 1 type of replacement (SKB to polysorbate, or the wheat germ oil to vitamin e).

Would converting everything into grams be the correct way to do it myself? For example, if I wanted to make 1 ounce, would the following be correct.

Convert ounces to grams...
1 ounce = 28.35 grams

So to make 1 ounce of serum, convert the percentages into grams...
82% Distilled water = 23.78grams
15% LAA = 4.35grams
1% Wheat Germ = .29grams
.5% Vodka = .145grams
.5% Optiphen = .145grams
.5% Polysorbate = .145grams
.5% Ferulic Acid = .145 grams

Weigh all the ingredients on scale.
Pandax12
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Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:49 am      Reply with quote
Optiphen can be added to the second shot glass. Looks good. It does not have to be exact. I'm almost positive your gonna have less than 1% vitamin E using the wheat germ. Could be wrong. I'd just go with this one for now and you could always change things up later. I've made a ton of various C serum recipes. This lil gadget is a must have IMO. Shipping is slow of course but dirt cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Battery-Powered-Whisk-Coffee-Milk-Mixer-Stirrer-P-/400716352366?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4c8e4b6e
stillerfan21
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Thu Feb 19, 2015 11:15 am      Reply with quote
YEah I would like to get a mixer. Are there any plastic ones that you know of? The one you linked to looks metal. Doesnt Vit C oxidize with metal?
Pandax12
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Thu Feb 19, 2015 11:36 am      Reply with quote
stillerfan21 wrote:
YEah I would like to get a mixer. Are there any plastic ones that you know of? The one you linked to looks metal. Doesnt Vit C oxidize with metal?


I would not worry about that. Not nearly enough contact time to be an issue.
stillerfan21
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Thu Feb 19, 2015 2:17 pm      Reply with quote
In the serum you linked to, it says " a pinch of ferulic acid". A pinch can be a wide range. Do you utilize a more accurate way of adding this pinch?
Pandax12
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Thu Feb 19, 2015 4:41 pm      Reply with quote
stillerfan21 wrote:
In the serum you linked to, it says " a pinch of ferulic acid". A pinch can be a wide range. Do you utilize a more accurate way of adding this pinch?


If your going with those directions, I would just add a pinch like it says. I personally like a more accurate reading and have never used that method before. Could always use one of these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NORPRO-5-PIECE-MINI-MEASURING-SPOONS-SET-S-S-TAD-DASH-PINCH-SMIDGEN-DROP-/331362427638?pt=Measuring_Cups&hash=item4d26bd62f6
stillerfan21
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Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:47 am      Reply with quote
I used this site for calculating percentage
wholesalesuppliesplus dot com/Calculators/Batch_Size_Calculator.aspx

and ordered this scale
American Weigh 100g x 0.01g Digital Scale
stillerfan21
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Mon Feb 23, 2015 8:44 pm      Reply with quote
So I followed kassy's directions to a T. Calculated all my percentages correctly. But for some reason, my first attempt at this failed miserably.
The PH measured about a 1.5. The consistency was pure water consistency. I'm pretty sure I mixed everything in both cup 1 and cup 2 thoroughly, however when I added both cups together, white clumps were everywhere, including being stuck to the side of the glass and stuck to my glass mixer.

Can anyone help me out?

Maybe I went wrong somewhere...

Should I store the polysorbate and optiphen in the fridge or no? It seemed like polysorbate was a little clumped up when taken out of the fridge, so I had to mix it around a little before I added that ingredient.

The second cup (vodka, ferulic acid, polysorbate, vitamin E) was very minute in terms of how much I added, and to mix it, I basically just had to scrape the bottom of the shot glass back and forth cause there was very little of anything. Maybe I didn't add enough? However, I'm pretty sure I calculated it perfectly. .28 grams of vitamin e was 1 percent, and .14 grams of everything else was .5 percent.

Or maybe in the other cup I added too much or too little of something. Water at 23.25 grams for 82 percent. LAA at 4.25 grams for 15 percent. And then .14 grams of optiphen for .5 percent
rmc7
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Tue Feb 24, 2015 1:29 pm      Reply with quote
Their are a bunch of Kassy's recipe's on http://www.skincaretalk.com it's possible the one you are looking for May be there.

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gangig
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Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:19 am      Reply with quote
Hi

I'm a total newbie to this forum as well as the DIY area of making serums. I am keen on making one of Kassy's serums but I'm not sure which one the choice is between Kassy's 15% Vitamin C Serum With WGO + FA and Kassy's 20% C,E,FA with B5. What is the difference between them? Also (I know this will sound really dumb) but how do you boil or heat such small quantities? I have an electric stove, can I use that and if so how? If not what are my other options?
acctedsi
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Thu Sep 15, 2016 4:07 am      Reply with quote
Hi,

I'm in the exact same boat and after scouring the internet I'm no wiser. The methods I've tried have resulted in the FA getting lumpy. I really hope someone is willing to explain how to go about this recipe. Thanks!
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